F
fishy
Guest
Yeah, thanks a fucking lot cannatari, now I have to save the entire thread and study it really, really, carefully if I'm going to embarrass myself by trying to grow Mango Haze. Very nice job Mr C
fish
fish
Mango Haze: Selection In Small Spaces
- Thread starter cannatari
- Start date
cannatari
New member
Hey, Elmer.
If I've learned anything about this plant it's to not make predictions but yes, I think I'm looking at some huge ass colas.
As far as my nute strength goes, it's actually about the same as I always run it. I will rarely attempt 1000ppm but I had an indica pheno of LSD that could take it. The other MH pheno's are a little more sensitive than the current one.
I cant wait to smoke some so I can accurately recommend it. This lady is a 10 in all categories so far. She severely out performs anything I've ever worked with including her sisters. This is a champion right here.
Nice! Glad you found your way to my journal, fishy.
I wouldn't study me too hard unless you grow hydro style. I'm going to be working with this girl for a long time so I hope to share what she does outdoors in soil in the near future.
Peace.
cannatari
New member
LOL! The Batman and Robin of Fem seeds.
1.6-1.8 ec, Hm....That's 800-900 ppm for my Hanna meter which is right on point.
My MH would probably need that much nutes if she were shoulder high like the plant in the video. My plant is like 2 feet wide and a little over a foot tall.
My first round was underfed at 600 ppm and I might be able to feed a little stronger than 800 if my formula was a little lower in N and I used R.O. water. (my tap is about 160 ppm right now and it is usually 90-100ppm.) It blows me away that the manufacturer's recommendation for aggressive strength is 1500 ppm! That would definitely fry my plants.
Peace.
1.6-1.8 ec, Hm....That's 800-900 ppm for my Hanna meter which is right on point.
My MH would probably need that much nutes if she were shoulder high like the plant in the video. My plant is like 2 feet wide and a little over a foot tall.
My first round was underfed at 600 ppm and I might be able to feed a little stronger than 800 if my formula was a little lower in N and I used R.O. water. (my tap is about 160 ppm right now and it is usually 90-100ppm.) It blows me away that the manufacturer's recommendation for aggressive strength is 1500 ppm! That would definitely fry my plants.
Peace.
K
Kangalunacy
Guest
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F
fishy
Guest
Oh crap! Fish grows in coco so I will never be able to replicate cannatari's efforts.
Wow!...that's a pretty slick excuse fishy
cannatari
New member
Round 2 Day 42
So my girl didn't show as much vegetative growth that she's had in the previous weeks so it's looking like she's focused on budding from here on out. This is confirmed by my ppm's shooting up to the 900's which means that she's more thirsty than hungry. I've never worked with a long flowering variety and I always assumed that long meant slow but this plant is not slow. I forget how long she's taking because she's so active and is actually faster than an 8 week plant on a day to day basis, the duration of her phases are just longer. She initiated flowering right away and started off just like an 8 weeker but she goes on to stack pistils for an entire month thereafter. It's easy to be patient when you see so much daily progress. I guess the picture I had in my head of a long flowering plant meant lots of idle time and that is definitely not the case with this MH.
Starting to see some sugar develop on the feeder leaves and there are a few instances of orange pistils:
The round 1 MH that's still flowering (still re-flowering) has finally started to produce the distinct mango aroma as about 5-10% of her pistils have turned orange. What used to just smell like candy now has a quality that tickles my nose like pepper and the candy smell is getting fruity. She's probably got another 2 weeks to go and me saying that 2 weeks ago did not seem to help her mature faster. So far the stress of her re-flowering has not as of yet caused her to herm but I do not know if her being seeded is any kind of herm insurance. I don't think this plant will ever herm but it's worthy to note that her response to stress so far has been produce more bud. Her seeds that I've collected from the lid of my hydro look real nice as well. They're oily like coffee beans and almost as dark. About a dozen beans fell into the hydro at some point and nearly all of them germinated in the 800ish ppm reservoir! Some had 1" tap roots and one of them got stuck to the wall of the res and had it's first set of leaves, LOL! So, I'm happy to report good germination rates with my MH F2's.
In other news, the MHz clone that I replaced the round 2 MHz clone with when I started flowering her has exceeded the other phenos in size which had a 4-5 week head start on her. Damn I love this girl! I was actually just seeing how long it would take for her to catch up to the other plants which was 6 to 10 (takes her 6 weeks to the other plants 10 weeks to reach equal size) but that number goes down from here, she's twice as fast once again. I'm not surprised by this but I wanted to note that I'm getting repeated results with this pheno's aggressive nature.
It's also about time to start getting ready for round 3 which looks like 2, T-topped MHz cuts should fill the cab nicely which will give us our first glimpse as to what the grams/watt potential is with this plant in my rig. I've taken some very nice 2 branch clones that were FIM'd on the mother plant about a month ago. It was like buy one get one free day at the nursery.
Peace.
So my girl didn't show as much vegetative growth that she's had in the previous weeks so it's looking like she's focused on budding from here on out. This is confirmed by my ppm's shooting up to the 900's which means that she's more thirsty than hungry. I've never worked with a long flowering variety and I always assumed that long meant slow but this plant is not slow. I forget how long she's taking because she's so active and is actually faster than an 8 week plant on a day to day basis, the duration of her phases are just longer. She initiated flowering right away and started off just like an 8 weeker but she goes on to stack pistils for an entire month thereafter. It's easy to be patient when you see so much daily progress. I guess the picture I had in my head of a long flowering plant meant lots of idle time and that is definitely not the case with this MH.
Starting to see some sugar develop on the feeder leaves and there are a few instances of orange pistils:
The round 1 MH that's still flowering (still re-flowering) has finally started to produce the distinct mango aroma as about 5-10% of her pistils have turned orange. What used to just smell like candy now has a quality that tickles my nose like pepper and the candy smell is getting fruity. She's probably got another 2 weeks to go and me saying that 2 weeks ago did not seem to help her mature faster.
So far the stress of her re-flowering has not as of yet caused her to herm but I do not know if her being seeded is any kind of herm insurance. I don't think this plant will ever herm but it's worthy to note that her response to stress so far has been produce more bud. Her seeds that I've collected from the lid of my hydro look real nice as well. They're oily like coffee beans and almost as dark. About a dozen beans fell into the hydro at some point and nearly all of them germinated in the 800ish ppm reservoir! Some had 1" tap roots and one of them got stuck to the wall of the res and had it's first set of leaves, LOL! So, I'm happy to report good germination rates with my MH F2's.In other news, the MHz clone that I replaced the round 2 MHz clone with when I started flowering her has exceeded the other phenos in size which had a 4-5 week head start on her. Damn I love this girl! I was actually just seeing how long it would take for her to catch up to the other plants which was 6 to 10 (takes her 6 weeks to the other plants 10 weeks to reach equal size) but that number goes down from here, she's twice as fast once again. I'm not surprised by this but I wanted to note that I'm getting repeated results with this pheno's aggressive nature.
It's also about time to start getting ready for round 3 which looks like 2, T-topped MHz cuts should fill the cab nicely which will give us our first glimpse as to what the grams/watt potential is with this plant in my rig. I've taken some very nice 2 branch clones that were FIM'd on the mother plant about a month ago. It was like buy one get one free day at the nursery.
Peace.
Attachments
cannatari
New member
Round 2 Day 49
How about the pic first this week:
The fan leaves have started to yellow over the past few days. The pH and ppm's are good so I'm thinking that this girl has an auto-ripening quality to her. The buds are really starting to swell and there is a lot of trich activity. Smell is like candy with a hint of fruity. She might be a 10 weeker, we'll see.
Peace.
How about the pic first this week:
The fan leaves have started to yellow over the past few days. The pH and ppm's are good so I'm thinking that this girl has an auto-ripening quality to her. The buds are really starting to swell and there is a lot of trich activity. Smell is like candy with a hint of fruity. She might be a 10 weeker, we'll see.
Peace.
Attachments
pepper
New member
this is very true, NH seeds are fatties
sometimes we do see a similar trait, as flo seeds by DJ are very small, one of his "upper strains" , but if we look at F-13, there fatter.. so where does this leave us..
I believe once, neville said he was picking seed by size, but it became abandoned to select by seed size...
have fun
sometimes we do see a similar trait, as flo seeds by DJ are very small, one of his "upper strains" , but if we look at F-13, there fatter.. so where does this leave us..
I believe once, neville said he was picking seed by size, but it became abandoned to select by seed size...
have fun
cannatari
New member
Round 2 Day 56
So...apparently...for over a year now....my timer has been set for 12.5/11.5 (on/off). I've never actually clocked my light cycle or watched the light go out but I happened to take a peak at 1 a.m. the other night and the light was still on when it should have turned off at 12:30. I looked at the timer and could understand right away how easy it was to misinterpret the settings. I have no idea if this has affected any of my grows and I'm a little bummed because this crop was supposed to be a control group for a future experiment. but Since this crop is nearing it's end, I went ahead and set the timer for 11.5/12.5 (on/off) thereby shortening the day cycle by 1 hour.
So this gal is still yellowing on her own. She was given a reservoir replacement last week so I'm sure it's not due to factors on that end. Overall, her pistils are about 25% peach with a few instances of rusty red ones. They definitely have a complexity to 'em that I have not seen in other plants that I've worked with.
Her profile pic looks the same as last week so I did all close-ups this week:
Peace.
So...apparently...for over a year now....my timer has been set for 12.5/11.5 (on/off). I've never actually clocked my light cycle or watched the light go out but I happened to take a peak at 1 a.m. the other night and the light was still on when it should have turned off at 12:30. I looked at the timer and could understand right away how easy it was to misinterpret the settings. I have no idea if this has affected any of my grows and I'm a little bummed because this crop was supposed to be a control group for a future experiment.
but Since this crop is nearing it's end, I went ahead and set the timer for 11.5/12.5 (on/off) thereby shortening the day cycle by 1 hour. So this gal is still yellowing on her own. She was given a reservoir replacement last week so I'm sure it's not due to factors on that end. Overall, her pistils are about 25% peach with a few instances of rusty red ones. They definitely have a complexity to 'em that I have not seen in other plants that I've worked with.
Her profile pic looks the same as last week so I did all close-ups this week:
Peace.
Attachments
Last edited:
cannatari
New member
New Problem
So, ever since this yellowing thing started, the pH in my reservoir has been dropping, sometimes by .5 in 24hrs. I think this occurred on my first round and I probably attributed it to the different phenos feeding differently. The Dutch Master Gold nutrients that I use are meant to rise in pH so you set at 5.5 and adjust down at 5.9. I'm on my 6th or 7th grow with this stuff and it has been so reliable that I don't even own a bottle of pH Up.
I referred to this chart from the Flairform website for some insight as to what might be happening in the res:
Considering the stage of flowering, the pH situation, and the chart, I confirmed my suspicions that the plants were consuming allot of K and little N thus causing the crash.
Enter POTASH+ (0-4-9)
By introducing this product into my lineup, the days of mindless mixing are gone. Now I have to formulate for at least 2, maybe 3 stages of flowering. I blame it all on the Haze!
So, Ive been trying to maintain about 100 ppm's of P+ for the past few days and my pH is still crashing and the E.C. goes down. This tells me that the plants are hungry as hell which is kinda amazing since they've been such light feeders up to this point. I'm guessing that since I added the P+ to the already nitrogen-rich res is why the pH is still crashing. Apparently I need to feed them P+ and micronutrients only at this point which I kinda figured was going to be the case when the problem started.
I'm going to replace the res tomorrow and if my formula is good then the pH should stay in range. The plants look good so they haven't been adversely affected by the pH swings and I could nurse the pH everyday and everything would probably to fine but remember that my big goal is to go 7 days with no maintenance. I get to go on vacations and the plants get to go nuts when the res has that kind of stability.
Round 3 will have an 8 gallon reservoir which will be far less stable than the 24 gallon system I'm running now but that will allow me to keep a closer eye on the feeding habits of my girl and do more frequent replacements which will be an excellent environment to base my formulations on. I'm taking the approach that E.C. fluctuations are related to nutrient strength and pH fluctuations are related to NPK ratios and formulate my regime based on that.
To put a kink in things, I'm also doing some color spectrum experiments as promised which will not help to make accurate conclusions but hopefully get the results I want. The good news is that I will start Round 3 with the same feeding regime as Round 2 so there will be some conclusiveness as to the color spectrum experiment. The goal will be to get 2-3 feet of stretch in the first 4 weeks of flowering. My cab is grossly over-lit but if I could fill the walls with vegetation there would be less light intensity. What happens is that the light is too intense on a small plant so it never climbs. The plant isn't smart enough to know that if it stretched out it would reduce the amount of reflectivity coming from the walls of my cab.
So here's the first filter I'm going to use. Neon Pink:
This is a 33% transmission filter but 90% of that loss is outside of the plant sensitivity curve. In a sense, this is the control group, not an experiment as it has the least amount of variables. Let's see what happens when you eliminate useless photons.
If that doesn't give me the stretch I want then I will aggressively reduce the blue spectrum with this filter, Apricot:
My goal is to get a V-shaped canopy in the cab for up to 12 square feet of canopy which will drop my watts/ft2 down to 50 and give me a gianormous Mango Haze harvest.
I've got a good feeling about Round 3 and there is a gorgeous Mango Haze lady in the bull-pin that should be pretty bushy by the time I complete this round.
Single plant, single hydro, pink light. Stay tuned.
Peace.
So, ever since this yellowing thing started, the pH in my reservoir has been dropping, sometimes by .5 in 24hrs. I think this occurred on my first round and I probably attributed it to the different phenos feeding differently. The Dutch Master Gold nutrients that I use are meant to rise in pH so you set at 5.5 and adjust down at 5.9. I'm on my 6th or 7th grow with this stuff and it has been so reliable that I don't even own a bottle of pH Up.
I referred to this chart from the Flairform website for some insight as to what might be happening in the res:
Considering the stage of flowering, the pH situation, and the chart, I confirmed my suspicions that the plants were consuming allot of K and little N thus causing the crash.
Enter POTASH+ (0-4-9)
By introducing this product into my lineup, the days of mindless mixing are gone. Now I have to formulate for at least 2, maybe 3 stages of flowering.
I blame it all on the Haze!So, Ive been trying to maintain about 100 ppm's of P+ for the past few days and my pH is still crashing and the E.C. goes down. This tells me that the plants are hungry as hell which is kinda amazing since they've been such light feeders up to this point. I'm guessing that since I added the P+ to the already nitrogen-rich res is why the pH is still crashing. Apparently I need to feed them P+ and micronutrients only at this point which I kinda figured was going to be the case when the problem started.
I'm going to replace the res tomorrow and if my formula is good then the pH should stay in range. The plants look good so they haven't been adversely affected by the pH swings and I could nurse the pH everyday and everything would probably to fine but remember that my big goal is to go 7 days with no maintenance. I get to go on vacations and the plants get to go nuts when the res has that kind of stability.
Round 3 will have an 8 gallon reservoir which will be far less stable than the 24 gallon system I'm running now but that will allow me to keep a closer eye on the feeding habits of my girl and do more frequent replacements which will be an excellent environment to base my formulations on. I'm taking the approach that E.C. fluctuations are related to nutrient strength and pH fluctuations are related to NPK ratios and formulate my regime based on that.
To put a kink in things, I'm also doing some color spectrum experiments as promised which will not help to make accurate conclusions but hopefully get the results I want. The good news is that I will start Round 3 with the same feeding regime as Round 2 so there will be some conclusiveness as to the color spectrum experiment. The goal will be to get 2-3 feet of stretch in the first 4 weeks of flowering. My cab is grossly over-lit but if I could fill the walls with vegetation there would be less light intensity. What happens is that the light is too intense on a small plant so it never climbs. The plant isn't smart enough to know that if it stretched out it would reduce the amount of reflectivity coming from the walls of my cab.
So here's the first filter I'm going to use. Neon Pink:
This is a 33% transmission filter but 90% of that loss is outside of the plant sensitivity curve. In a sense, this is the control group, not an experiment as it has the least amount of variables. Let's see what happens when you eliminate useless photons.
If that doesn't give me the stretch I want then I will aggressively reduce the blue spectrum with this filter, Apricot:
My goal is to get a V-shaped canopy in the cab for up to 12 square feet of canopy which will drop my watts/ft2 down to 50 and give me a gianormous Mango Haze harvest.
I've got a good feeling about Round 3 and there is a gorgeous Mango Haze lady in the bull-pin that should be pretty bushy by the time I complete this round.
Single plant, single hydro, pink light. Stay tuned.
Peace.
cannatari
New member
Hiya, Elmer.
That was a good read, thanks for sharing.
Most of what it said doesn't apply to DWC because there is no medium for alkalinity to build up in.
BUT WAIT! THERE'S MORE!
The info could have been condensed down to 1 page if it had been written by a scientist and not a salesman.
Peace.
That was a good read, thanks for sharing.
Most of what it said doesn't apply to DWC because there is no medium for alkalinity to build up in.
BUT WAIT! THERE'S MORE!
The info could have been condensed down to 1 page if it had been written by a scientist and not a salesman.
Peace.
bushweed
New member
Very nice..should be amazing at 90-100 days..