Musashi Plays With Fire- The Doors and Neville's Haze

Aloha Musashi! I am test smoking some of my Doors #10, formerly known as the runt, and am contemplating the quality and duration of the effect to the other three Doors plants I've sampled. They're all really good and the consistency of potency across phenos is remarkable. I have yet to sample the 14-15-week pheno but I would bet my harvest that the longest flowering one will have an effect that stands above the rest. Given the consistent potency of The Doors phenos compared to the reported variability of effect among Neville's Haze phenos, I would choose a male from The Doors, preferably the latest flowering male. I've found that a quick and brutal test of a male's intersex tendency can be made by chopping off the upper half of a flowering male (collecting pollen from the cut in a vase of water over a sheet of glass) and observing its response.

I built my COB LEDs almost three years ago and have had flawless performance from them since. I'd avoid that blurple shit like the plague and look at COBs in the 3500K or higher range to help control sativa stretch.

Great thread. So glad to see you sharing your grow with us.
 
Hi all,

looking nice.

I am also using Leds COBS (bridgelux vero 29) 2x 3500 2x 3600
plus some added infra red led.. And have superb plants for 4 years.. The structures are more robust..

Only thing is nutrients absorption at all work slightly different.. But overall I must add myself to say, test it for yourself, you will be pleasantly surprised by the lights.

Let it grow )
 
Ditto what everyone else is saying regarding LEDs, those burlple lights were horrible on your eyes but the modern high power white LEDs are fantastic better then HPS in every way except price or if you need the heat for winter grows.

I didn't expect much smell yet but sometimes you get those unusally smelly plants, 1 of my 4 doors babies is quite a bit more smelly but maybe it's the chemotherapy messing with my nose I'm not good with taste and smell at the moment.
 
Stay in your own lane or?

Aloha fellow Firewalkers!

@masey have you popped those NH yet?

@Ronin, andy21. Marcus, P3Ci, Dkeppel
Preachin’ to the choir and thanks for the love and support! I always welcome more efficient technologies though I am rarely the first in line, waiting for refinement of product and consequent cost reduction. I believe that LED is still quite expensive relative to HID. Please say it isn’t so. How much did you spend for your setups? Did you design your system to mimic higher latitude or equatorial lighting? Any input here? That would be helpful information to many I am sure. We could talk about systems that would take the place of 1000w x 2, or a system that would efficiently replace a 600w x 2 setup. Share your build. Post it here or PM me and help me get a better understanding. Your help is most appreciated. Please stay within the context of this thread.
Dkeppel said:
Ditto what everyone else is saying regarding LEDs, those burlple lights were horrible on your eyes but the modern high power white LEDs are fantastic better then HPS in every way except price or if you need the heat for winter grows...
Click to expand...
Currently, I do utilize the HID heat to warm the house in winter, reducing my costs for heating. I don’t need the heat for summer though and would welcome an alternative. Sold on the technology, my only remaining objection is cost, coming down to ROI before I commit. But thanks for the little nudge and perhaps 2020 is the year to switch over. In the meantime, within budget limitations, let’s see what an old fashioned 600w x 2 setup will produce.

Braddah Marcus, thank you for your input re: Doors males. I like your argument and our thinking is closely aligned. Reading the limited information on Neville’s Haze, I will say that the negatives have not been my overall experience. Yes, I have found some hay but I have found a lot of worthy specimens. Hay is just not attributable to genetics alone. IME, I find temperature, feeding, drying and curing a contributor.
Not possessing any experience with The Doors is where I run into a wall. I have no frame of reference, so I am left with my imagination. As I go through the mini-worrying stage, various scenarios unfold. 1) keep it simple and grow crop out and select clones, 2) breed the Doors to the Doors and do the same with the Neville’s, 3) selectively breed the Doors to Neville’s in hopes of a better distribution of Hz A and C, 4) do an open pollination and then work with the filials. As much as I want to put on my pollen chucking hat, I already have so many seeds... therein lies my reluctance.
Potency wise, I don’t want to think that Neville’s Haze is inferior to the Doors, which may be debatable, but I just don’t know at this point. What I do know is starting with good genetics provides a solid foundation for the chosen project. I wish the old timers with more experience with these varieties would chime in on this. I am sure we would benefit from their wisdom and guidance.

Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!


Shaka
Mu
 
Unfortunately the only Neville's haze I have grown was F2s from other growers, not F1s from Shanti. Way different scenarios.
 
If you're handy with electric and fabrication, you can build your own for pretty cheap. Samsung released some new lights that are designed strictly for agriculture, though a lot of people/companies have been using their parts for their grow lights prior to release.

The lights we use at work are pre-fab- it's too huge of an operation to build our own.

You can pick your spectrum. Samsung has full spectrum.


Edit- I know a few people who use LED in warm months and HID in the cold.
 
You can find plans for building your own lights with a google search.



Do some research and see what type of lights would best fit your setup. The tech is pretty impressive at this stage.
 
musashi said:
Aloha fellow Firewalkers!

@Ronin, andy21. Marcus, P3Ci, Dkeppel
Preachin’ to the choir and thanks for the love and support! I always welcome more efficient technologies though I am rarely the first in line, waiting for refinement of product and consequent cost reduction. I believe that LED is still quite expensive relative to HID. Please say it isn’t so. How much did you spend for your setups? Did you design your system to mimic higher latitude or equatorial lighting? Any input here? That would be helpful information to many I am sure. We could talk about systems that would take the place of 1000w x 2, or a system that would efficiently replace a 600w x 2 setup. Share your build. Post it here or PM me and help me get a better understanding. Your help is most appreciated. Please stay within the context of this thread.
Click to expand...

I bought mine (around 400W - around 550USD) 4yrs back to replace my old 250W HPS/MHD. And I am still surprised about its quality.


For your setup, it will bigger cost... I see.

Just to sit around 600W, you would need about 8x Vero 29 chips (+better some optics too), Meanwell driver, aluminium frame and some cooling.

If you buy it as whole product, then there is a price tag around 700-900USD for this setup.

If you build it on your own, then one Vero gen7 chip is around 30+ dolls, driver around ?100? USD. + some aluminium frame, some heatsinks, some cables and knowledge.
The prices are taken from other currency, so not 100% sure about it.

But as I said, it is absolutely best compared to other fancy LED lights. Even the prices are not so bad compared to other LED lights.

edit: My setup usses 10x added (weak)infra ledchips, those should help in flowering, they mimic sun rays in some ways. You cant see em emit red light by eye, but probably used for better results and faster flowering.
 

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musashi said:
Downright provocative. Care to share your experience brah?

Shaka
Mu
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I had one NH F2 that I liked a lot, but it wasn't better than other, easier, plants I had going at the time. As we're always on about, it's about selection. The ones I got were (supposedly) from a batch that went through OJD's hands (Connoisseur genetics), and he has made great selections. I do know that he LOVES NH and I believe that he's still working with it.

I'm going to throw TimberGrow lights out there for LEDs. ;)
 
Hi Musashi, i like to add this page for those interested in LED lighting. This site describes the most common LEDs nowadays and how to connect them, diy, Photos etc, its all solid info.

https://ledgardener.com

Build it yourself! it will save ya alot money. Mangohaze brought me 1.9Gram/Watt under cob leds. Thats including the usage off the Led drivers :cool:

rule off thumb 300W/M2 high end leds is enough to beat an hps with ease. ive seen First timers still easy hit 1.4g/w based on a Led-strips setup. Thats also the easiest kind of leds to work with for those that are not really handy.

strips for most even coverage, but i would suggest if you like to grow big sativas without scrog you`ll be better off with a Led-COB setup. this is because the COBs (chipsOnBoard) have the leds grouped togheter making it one powerfull led spot and this will penetrate deeper then leds strips do.
 
Aloha fellow Firewalkers!

@everyone- thanks for all the LED lighting help! Now let’s get back to the plants.
@PMB- thanks for the info on the NH F2's. So you dropped it? What did you keep instead?

As promised, it is time to find out who the boys and girls are. They are getting past me with the tallest of both varieties pushing past 14”. Lighting set to 15/8 today with a diminishing schedule settling on 12/12 and then finishing with even less daytime.

doors_nev 12_2.jpg
The Doors and Neville's Haze

That darn pH got away from me again. Got the formula down and everything is fine, and then the hiccup. I think I mentioned earlier how my tap water pH changes about this time of the year. I forgot. And, good time for the pH meter to blow a sensor not alerting me of this earlier. Doh! Though there is some yellowing on the bottom, I reason that they will continue to thrive as there is sufficient green material on top. Meanwhile, I’ll pay better attention to the chemistry basics. As soon as they sex out, I’ll transplant them into much larger pots, which should further help ameliorate the imbalance. Those sativas can be sensitive buggers, eh?


Shaka
Mu
 
Hey Mushi, I had some C99xs that I was running. I am not sure of what my "staple" cut at the time was, but it was probably right about the time I ditched a Northern Lights type plant I got from bag seed. I called it "thunk", but was unaware of Sam's X called that. It was probably my favorite Indica heavy plant I ever ran because it was was ALWAYS smile inducing, and always "post thinking"~ Thunk

Gave up on the cut because it would consistently throw what seemed like fertile male parts.

Good luck on these girls.
 
Looking forward to the results musashi, positive vibes for the grow bro.

PlantManBee said:
It was probably my favorite Indica heavy plant I ever ran because it was was ALWAYS smile inducing, and always "post thinking"~ Thunk
Click to expand...

"I thought a thought. But the thought I thought wasn’t the thought I thought I thought." :D
 
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There looking better then my plants Mu, poor things were neglected badly this week due to my chemo and a cold on top of that, Ive got some N defiencey and minor light burn that ive hopefully now sorted.

The good news is my Doors plants have taken it very well, ignored for 5 + days and still looking happy enough bit of yellowing on the lower leaves but otherwise fine, can't say the same for the rest of the plants a few were dam near death when I watered earlier....
 
Aloha braddah!

Ahh the pleasures of growing cannabis. Besides trying to keep RH high enough, I myself have sustained the dreaded pH lockout. I get my new sensor for my pH meter today! Trying to beat the clock with getting them sexed and then transplanted to bigger pots but I may have to do a bonemeal flush to alleviate the problem as yellowing is at the third node already. As of yesterday, I have 6/10 NH and 5/16 Doors females. I will check again today to see the mix and begin to transplant the shown females. Keep up the good fight braddah. Many of us are praying for your return to good health.


Shaka
Mu
 
Aloha fellow Firewalkers!

@PMB, BP, Dkeppel
Thank you braddahs for your continued support.

Well, nothing like the present moment.
doors_nev 12_9.jpg

Taking a break now after up-potting 13 sativas. Females so far: The Doors 3,7,8,9,10,15 and Neville’s Haze 2,3,4,5,6,8,10. The 2nd light (HPS) is now on and the vibe is pleasant as the room becomes more alive. I can use the heat and the intensity now and the larger pots will bring in the needed humidity. Suppose I could call it my living room now? Har har.
Schlepping 2 cuft. bags of soil, prepping and then hauling 5 gallon pots into the grow room after transplant has got my back to spasming. Puffin on some ACDC/Ortega for relief. Dark Side of the Moon brings nostalgia coming from the real living room. TG I didn’t load up the pots with water before moving them so they still need to be watered to finish today’s project. Just think, it only took me one time trying to haul a bunch of just-watered 5 gallon pots to the room to realize the impact of physics. :D


Shaka
Mu
 
Aloha braddahs!

@ronin thanks for having my back braddah! Your help is always appreciated.

Such useful information for many and an oversight on my part to not mention. Yes, they are sprayed with a mixture of kelp and silicates. Both help in leaf protection. Silicates in particular contribute to water retention which is useful when plants are first introduced to intense lighting.

Thanks again for the bless up.

Mele Kalikimaka
Mu
 
Nice grow tech, hombres; I'm learning things here in Musashi's hazy thread.

Getting ready for the show, Musashi. Well done. The Nevs seem to have weathered the pH storm better than The Doors, from what I can tell.

Can't wait to see how your Neville's Haze turns out...that's likely my next MNS grow (or Mango Haze IBL).

Aloha!
 
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