Is indeed amazing and Legendary strain.
This is the original G13 from fem seeds, made by Shanti.
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G13Hz Vs Nl5Hz who wins?
- Thread starter Apollo
- Start date
This is the original G13 from fem seeds, made by Shanti.
Diesel840
Well-known member
Here is to hoping I find that high in the G13SkxHzAC.I haven’t anything to base this on but I’m betting the G13 x Hz AC will deliver those old type elevator highs that have been harder and harder to find.
Worn Down Soul
Well-known member
KILLER pictures in this thread, Apollo. I mean like, from someone, who has seen a LOT of ganja photography; you really nailed it, I mean like a goal from center field, nailed it.Thanks for the reply and experience shared Axiom back in the 90s I was a still a kid.
The G13Hz is Ibl is more selected I will say
I have asked Shanti about the G13Hz ibl background and he told the me was C.
I dont have great knowledge about the difference between A and C to comment more about them .
everybody has his own favorite
Anyways as per another thread and just so other people browsing might be more likely to read it: the difference, as per content here, is that the Haze A is more of a raw male energy version of Haze. Where the Haze C is conceptualizable as the more feminine aspects. I at least interpret that as white knuckles vs warm, uplifting, and expansive. Granted that white knuckle shit can get pretty trippy, but its not exactly "good" trippy. Its more the "They're coming. I don't know who, but they are coming. Hide under the sheets" type stuff. I've not had both specifically, but I know the breadth of old school Mexican sativa, growing up in The Dirty Dirty.
Proud Kraut
Well-known member
Worn Down Soul
Well-known member
Being that is the one, I got a pack of, or at least that will be on the way soon. That does give me reason to smile.We have a winner "G13Hz ibl "wins by knocking out NL5hz out of the picture clean
I got them in part to finish something, I have been working on, That used Reeferman's cup winning cut. It wasn't noteworthy except in being strong. If you didn't take it to exactly 80 days it was too edgy for words. The scissor hash of that was like a peek (only a "peek" due to duration of effects) into stimmed out paranoia. Then to get it there was not always the smoothest of sailing. It was one of those prima donna plants that needed everything just so. Else it would just quit flowering and ripening correctly. It would keep growing., sort of, it just wouldn't really continue blooming or ripening correctly. Then it had almost no discernible flavor what so ever. IF you got her there. The plus side was that it's ripening characteristics gave it enough CBN for a HEAVY body stone. While at the same time being elevator lift heady.
The Reeferman line used the Airbone G13. Which was supposed to be a G13 x NL2 S1. While I can clearly see that these plants are a lot more vigorous than what I grew. I still haven't seen a good smoke report. So have no idea what to expect otherwise in terms of flavor or effects. Also, anyone have any experience with these, outdoors in a higher humidity region?
Freedom_Fighter
Well-known member
Mr. Nice 'G13 Haze' Bud Shot at Spannabis 2014
By the sound of the happy bud waver in this 10 yr old video, the sun grown G13 Haze that produced this massive bud was approximately 6.5 to 7.0 ft tall, with a giant sized main cola. The dude says it was bigger than his head. If that's normal for the outdoor, sun grown G13 Haze, then high humidity and October rains could prove very problematic.
Cheers! - FF
By the sound of the happy bud waver in this 10 yr old video, the sun grown G13 Haze that produced this massive bud was approximately 6.5 to 7.0 ft tall, with a giant sized main cola. The dude says it was bigger than his head. If that's normal for the outdoor, sun grown G13 Haze, then high humidity and October rains could prove very problematic.
Cheers! - FF
Worn Down Soul
Well-known member
By training it into a bush with each main branch, the same height as the others. You can divide the mass up, but yeah "bigger than my head..." point taken...
Freedom_Fighter
Well-known member
At 6 PM on May 22, two days ago, I dropped ten G13×HZ ɓeans into EM-1 treated water.
Within a few hours, seven of them sank to the bottom of the jar, so were promptly placed into seedling soil. By 2AM, the remaining 3 sank to the bottom, and were promptly moved to soil.
By 6 PM today, or less than 48 hrs in soil, 7 of them sprouted and broke through the soil. I'm delighted with their vigor! Great work MNS!!
Within a few hours, seven of them sank to the bottom of the jar, so were promptly placed into seedling soil. By 2AM, the remaining 3 sank to the bottom, and were promptly moved to soil.
By 6 PM today, or less than 48 hrs in soil, 7 of them sprouted and broke through the soil. I'm delighted with their vigor! Great work MNS!!
Worn Down Soul
Well-known member
RSC's Sinai is the only other strain, I know of, that pops that fast. They are like fucking Brassicas almost.
Keep us updated. As a generality, great video links btw.
Keep us updated. As a generality, great video links btw.
Freedom_Fighter
Well-known member
Thanks WDS, I will start a thread journal for it, soon. Neville's comment, shared in Post #8 of this thread, has me wondering now which version I have: G13.HzA or G13.HzC? I don't remember if that detail was even mentioned in the Auction description. These will be grown outdoor so if I end up with a pheno that doesn't want to finish by late October, I'll have my answer. They will be "light dep-ed" at 18" (46 cm).
Worn Down Soul
Well-known member
What latitude are you at? Last season using some Bacillus subtilis I had on hand for making natto seemed to help noticeably to fend off the mold. (weird, late season, but with enough moisture to worry) To my eye, it seemed to do more than Actinovate. There is research and it is cheap and easy enough to get a hold of. There is research showing benefits from using protein hydrolysates as foliar sprays. With natto specifically, the peak in total proteins is at around 10-11 days. figure a well filtered (Buchner funnel, with suction) water based extract might just be the golden standard. As you'd get both, but it seems like establishing the Baccilis subtilits retards the establishment of other types of microbial colonies. I know that in Korean traditional agriculture, the fermenting foods are often housed next to garden plants. I think that there is something to it; like it alters the entire local microbial microcosm over time.
The other thing, I have been experimenting a lot with lately is using media quantity levels of diatomacious earth, mixed into my media. Aside from oxygen holding and moisture holding at the microscopic level. I think that as earthworms traverse the media, they are crunching it down into microcrystalline silica dioxide, that is more likely to be converted into orthosilicic acid, in trace amounts, which is absolutely bioavailable. Seems to have a more visible effect on stem thickness, etc, than potassium silicate as a foliar. In the soil, it just always seemed to fuck with pH. So personally, with that one, I found the DE superior. I think that I have a STOCK solution of a couple of gallons somewhere around here. So its not like the option isn't there.
You just seemed worried about mold (with the buds as big as your head) so... you know build that wall BEFORE the Mongol hoards are invading, right?
Looking forward to your grow log. I've got a pack of these on the way too.
Freedom_Fighter
Well-known member
I'm at 42° N, in Ontario Canada, at an elevation of just under 600 ft.
Thanks for the grow tips. Much appreciated and I'll ponder over them well. I'll be growing in pots, with biological inputs. Will do everything possible to optimize calcium levels; as thicker cell walls are more resistant to PM and mold.
LOL! "Build that wall" of defense is right
; and what I intend to do. You correctly discerned my mind, or concern about mold issues. I've been stung badly by it, in past grows. I'm only minutes away from the mouth of the Detroit River, which empties out into a large fresh water lake; so rain and humidity here is a serious concern for me.Awesome, thanks again & cheers!!
Uncle Jack
Well-known member
Just started flowering a G13/haze a week ago.
The NL5/Hz I grew out had really nice terps, but wanted to keep flowering.
Reading some of the reports on NL5/Hz it seems it may have more pheno varieties than the G13/Hz.
Some good growers speak very highly of their NL5/Hz keepers so there are obviously gems in there.
I have also kept a G13/Hz male for making seeds that just showed roots on the clone.
I want to make a G13/Hz F2.
It has been mentioned on these forums that the G13 /Hz makes excellent breeding stock.
The NL5/Hz I grew out had really nice terps, but wanted to keep flowering.
Reading some of the reports on NL5/Hz it seems it may have more pheno varieties than the G13/Hz.
Some good growers speak very highly of their NL5/Hz keepers so there are obviously gems in there.
I have also kept a G13/Hz male for making seeds that just showed roots on the clone.
I want to make a G13/Hz F2.
It has been mentioned on these forums that the G13 /Hz makes excellent breeding stock.
Worn Down Soul
Well-known member
I'm at 42° N, in Ontario Canada, at an elevation of just under 600 ft.
I'm at 42° N, in Ontario Canada, at an elevation of just under 600 ft.
Thanks for the grow tips. Much appreciated and I'll ponder over them well. I'll be growing in pots, with biological inputs. Will do everything possible to optimize calcium levels; as thicker cell walls are more resistant to PM and mold.
LOL! "Build that wall" of defense is right
Awesome, thanks again & cheers!!
Thanks for the grow tips. Much appreciated and I'll ponder over them well. I'll be growing in pots, with biological inputs. Will do everything possible to optimize calcium levels; as thicker cell walls are more resistant to PM and mold.
LOL! "Build that wall" of defense is right
Awesome, thanks again & cheers!!
I can walk to the Santiam River in about
I'm at 42° N, in Ontario Canada, at an elevation of just under 600 ft.
Thanks for the grow tips. Much appreciated and I'll ponder over them well. I'll be growing in pots, with biological inputs. Will do everything possible to optimize calcium levels; as thicker cell walls are more resistant to PM and mold.
LOL! "Build that wall" of defense is right
Awesome, thanks again & cheers!!
I can walk to the Santiam River in about 15 min, if I'm taking my time. I'm in a cold, wet pocket, of interrupted highlands, west of the Cascades.. So we are speaking a similar language. I'm closer to the 45th.
One of the most astounding grows on here is, imo, the 2021 Ontario Early Queen outdoor grow.
As per Skunkle's comment, and the simple fact that this one is an IBL, if you found something even close, then gave her some EQ pollen.. Might be something to think about. I found a less assertive Kumaoni male to act as a genetic "Rainguard" for my sativa endeavors here. Though there is also some Parvati Valley in there too. The latter just wanted a few more weeks than was ideal. I could finish her, but just barely. Where the Kumaoni is like Goldilocks perfect. My more assertive plant (Kumaoni) turns dark purple and smells like Minute Made oj concentrate. Great flower structure for that part of the world. Vs the EQ though, you will have to breed out all CBD phenos, more feral ones, and some lower potency ones too. So the EQ is easier. Just saying what worked for me.
Diatoms kind of just hit that autistic streak in me. I mean, they are so plentiful that they even influence the weather, via being taken up into the atmosphere. Plus, anytime you put something, with lots of nooks and crannies into the soil, it pretty much turns into high occupancy microbial housing. Then the other thing, (and I have enough earthworms in my media, that fabric pots are nice as the others shit earthworm castings out of the bottom, from all of the motion, of them doing their thing) is that over about a few months it goes from looking greyish and chalky to just looking like high quality earthworm castings, without much of any loss in volume, just obvious settling. In the middle though, the media itself almost feels like horticultural foam; like what is used for flower arrangements. A LOT less need for frequency of watering too.
Just makes me think, in general about the lack of significant mineral element, in a lot of indoor grow medias, vs... actual soil. Thought streaming...
Anyways, its always nice to see you around and thanks again for sharing.
As an aside, on Skunkle's comment, one of the things, that I am really looking forward to, with those beans, is to make a shitload of seeds and then pan for indica phenos to cross to the G13 x Skunk.
(Skunkle) Looking forward to your ASH log by the way. I had a Jack and the Beanstalk Haze plant, I found, out of some Walkabout, from the time that it was released (ASH.) I've always wondered if that what it was and what else was in that gene pool.
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Proud Kraut
Well-known member
Just ran across the Diatomeen Earth aka SiO2 for powdering application against thrips. Currently mixing close to one m³ of soil and will also have some of this mixed in, should help strengthen the cellwalls. Manure from.common horsetail is also a good natrual Si source and in manure form very avilable.
Trichoderma and bacillus subtilis together as foilar are said to work well in regards of preflower IPM - just picked that up over at another place so seem to hold some value. Ive not worked knowingly with bacillus subtilis and trichoderma only watered in to break down dead roots and clean the medium but it was def good stuff. Hesi sells bottles of it called Hesi Zyme in case someone is looking for an easy source.
Trichoderma and bacillus subtilis together as foilar are said to work well in regards of preflower IPM - just picked that up over at another place so seem to hold some value. Ive not worked knowingly with bacillus subtilis and trichoderma only watered in to break down dead roots and clean the medium but it was def good stuff. Hesi sells bottles of it called Hesi Zyme in case someone is looking for an easy source.
Worn Down Soul
Well-known member
That is absolutely right that the horsetails need to be introduced physically, into the medium, to be effective. Manures like you said, or mixed in heavily and vermicomposted as another option. Aqueous extracts have been shown by research to only contain things, like polyphenols though.
I've tried using them, dried, and heavily mixed into a media. They breakdown too quickly for structure, but too slowly for much of a Si boost.
I've never had a soil based issue, that predatory neematodes wouldn't knock out. Just throwing that out there. I once had an issue, with flea beetles on my broccoli raabs. It ended up being the only thing, that finally did it.
I did discover though, that as a nuclear option, there is an alkaloid, that can be extracted from mullein (Verbascum densiflorum) seed. Acetone is the best solvent. Apparently it will kill earthworms even and persists for a few months. So I didn't use it, but it is there.
The Bacillus subtilis I just already had, for making natto and had read an article. So hey...? Right...? It seemed effective. The beauty of just using it, via a very well filtered soybean hydroslyate, made via... making natto... is that the cultured soybeans can be "sourdoughed" to start the next batch. Rather than having to use the spores, that you spent money on.
And hence an effective treatment for PM used in a foliar made from a tea. Also containing Ca and Mg and others; wondering out loud if this is an all-round indica treatment under LED's and Ca/Mg deficient locales.
mu
Worn Down Soul
Well-known member
There is no doubt that it is a potent bioaccumulator of silica or that it can be effectively used to control a range of fungal diseases. It just seems like the blanket assertion that this is entirely due to it's mineral content ignores the amount of research looking at it's water soluble organic components or that not all types of sprays made from it are particularly silica rich.
It just seems like one of the ones, where what you get out of it has a lot to do with what you do with it.
This is an excerpt that I cannot find a full link to the original article of
"According to Garcia et al. (2012), field horsetail
contains phenolic acids (apigenin 5-O-glucoside, methyl
esthers of protocatechuic, 5-O-caffeoyl shikimic acid,
monocaffeoyl meso-tartaric acid, dicaffeoyl meso-tartaric
acid), flavonoids (quercetin, isoquercetin, quercetin
3-O-glucoside, quercetin 3-O-(6″-O-malonylglucoside),
kaempferol 3-O-glycoside), that are distinguished by
antioxidant properties. What is more, there are also some
potassium salts and alkaloids including nicotine, various
organic acids and rare dicarboxylic acids."
The article itself was looking at using extracts to boost the nutrient contents of sprouts,
The quote is from:
Effect of Equisetum arvense and Stevia rebaudiana extracts on growth and mycotoxin production by Aspergillus flavus and Fusarium verticillioides in maize seeds as affected by water activity - PubMed
Cereals are a very important part of the human and animal diets. However, agricultural products can be contaminated by moulds and their mycotoxins. Plant extracts, particularly those of Equisetum arvense and Stevia rebaudiana have been reported previously to contain antioxidant compounds which...
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Then there are studies, that unambiguously advocate it AS a silica fertilizer
Effect of common horsetail extract on growth characteristics, essential oil yield and chemical compositions of basil (Ocimum basilicum L.) - Scientific Reports
To investigate the effect of horsetail extract containing high silicon on morphological traits, growth, content, and compositions of essential oil of sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum L.) an experiment turned into carried out in the shape of a randomized complete block design with three...
www.nature.com
It certainly has fungicidal properties
Evaluation of Equisetum arvense (Horsetail Macerate) as a Copper Substitute for Pathogen Management in Field-Grown Organic Tomato and Durum Wheat Cultivations
Effective pathogen management, as an aspect of agroecological crop protection (ACP) necessitates the replacement of copper (Cu) fungicides, but there is little knowledge relating to the performance of potentially suitable alternatives in large-scale, open-field agricultural settings. The present...
www.mdpi.com
I have a couple of studies, on my other computer, that I will dig up, that draw into question how universal the silica content of all sprays, made from it are though. Even in those studies, they found positive effect. They just credited the organic compounds present, rather than it's mineral content.
With the diatomaceous earth, all it is is amorphous silicon dioxide... However in saying that, and considering the complex microscopic structure of it. It just becomes apparent that considering it based on chemical composition alone is only half of the picture. It's actual physical structure entails myriad little pockets, that act as both O2 and water reservoirs. Then there is all sorts of research showing that nanoparticles of minerals are more reactive and sometimes even demonstrate chemistry, the more bulky form lacks. So as the worms are traversing the media. They are consuming and excreting and incorporating it over and over and over. I contend that this weathers it down. Making the particles smaller and smaller. While silicon dioxide isn't very reactive. These small particles, especially in those concentrations (say 30% of the media) making it a higher statistical probability are converted, in small amounts, into biologically active orthosilicic acid. The effects on the plants are pretty clear, from more robust root growth to stems, that have the girth of plants, with a good fan on them, with no air circulation at all. So far, I've been impressed anyways. Somewhere in there, it seems to buffer pH too.
For an all around treatment; I'd go stinging nettles all the way. Just more complexity. I think that they are considered the most dense in trace minerals of all land vegetables even. A Japanese man once went on a long, but enjoyable monologue about how in English we have it wrong. They aren't "seaweeds." They are sea treasures. Anyways, I've been having good luck top dressing with a quasi-Bokashi style lactofermented meal, made of a mixture of ground soy/pinto beans, brown rice... some bran of some sort... It was pretty improvisational. Point is: fertilizer from old dry goods and REALLY old kefir, anaerobically fermented in a bucket. If anything, getting the touch just right is tricky. As I have gotten burnt tips a couple of times, but the main thing, is that they still need additional P. I think that soybean biochar could do the trick on P-K though. For more standard results, I think that drying and re grinding the end product would help.
I've got one study, that I am waiting to test, that showed making a bokashi style fertilizer from corn silage and soybeans created a pretty ideal fertilizer, that also utilized microbe indigenous to the corn, to create a sort of inoculate, that boosted phosphorus absorption.
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Proud Kraut
Well-known member
Nice inputs! I will have to read all that liked up info another day but appreciate the input @Worn Down Soul - @musashi i try to have already a balance in the soil mix but varieties with special needs and LED can demand to learn some new tricks