The Resuscitation, Revival and Resurrection of Old Heirloom Seeds

musashi

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Staff member
Aloha fellow firewalkers!

It was in the Fall, October, in the early 80's. The time of the season to float the Rogue River in So. Oregon to catch half-pounders. https://fishbio.com/half-pounder-history/
If you don't want to hard-core camp on the river, there are 4 or 5 lodges along the river one can stay at. This was our option as it is the cool, rainy season and it is nice to sleep in a warm bed after a hot meal, some bourbon and a cigar over the bull-shitting. Some die-hard fishing buddies and me would make the yearly trek to participate in some of the finest fishing in the world.
Since the time of Zane Grey the river was famous for it's salmon and steelhead fishery. In those olden days, tradition had it that double hooks were used in the making of flies for this endeavor. Not necessarily to increase fishing deadliness but the extra weight of the hook got the fly down to the right depth to attract these shiny, beautiful creatures returning from the ocean after their 2-year walkabout.
71vneovByOS.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_FMwebp_.jpg

Today, people have gotten over that superstition. They use sinking lines to accomplish this.
On these 3 days spent on the river, not a single fish rose to these double hook patterns. When we got back to the lodge for lunch on the second day, I pulled out my fly-tying vise and quick tied up some of my tried and true royal coachmans. A very old pattern, it has worked when all else has failed.
Royal-Coachman-Wet-Flies.jpg
I also tied some stonefly patterns similar to this.
tunghead stonefly.jpg
I slaughtered them that afternoon to the chagrin of my guide as I was using something heretical on "his" river. During one of our pee breaks, pulling up to the shore for that brief moment of relief, I saw this laying on the rocks close to the water.
1985 canister.jpg
I retrieved it and found that it was filled with cannabis seeds! I don't know why I didn't plant them right away just one of those things. I did plant some in 2000, but my sister got nervous and cut them down. Grrr! I haven't talked with her in years :(
Anyway, here today with old, old seeds that this dumb-ass took for granted. How was I to know that people would covet these above all others? Now are they skunk, the real skunk? I don't know as I have not grown it out completely. But they did come from that era. And so finally, I am motivated to find out. There are so many ways and opinions as to how to resuscitate, revive, resurrect but I am reluctant to try all as I only have so much of this commodity and want to minimize any mistakes or errors. I found this article some time ago and thought I'd share so you could understand my thinking on this (next post). The seeds are in the fridge as we speak as I continue to read and learn what might be the best way to bring these precious seeds to life. Stay tuned.

mu
 
Here is the article.
Part 1

Dormant Seed Germination 101
Part 1: Intro

My main reason for posting is to assist others (and myself!) in germinating old, dormant cannabis seeds. Not only do I hope to generate discussion, but I hope this can become a "germination reference manual" if you will. The info in this thread is relevant to all cannabis seeds and germinations.

I am concentrating on the causes of seed dormancy, associated germination problems and their solutions. I use the same techniques to germinate old and young seeds alike...but for the sake of this thread's clarity and simplicity I'm concentrating on old, dormant seeds. You should be able to germinate viable older seeds (20+ years) with the information and guide herein.

Main causes of germination problems:

a.) Seed Viability: If the embryo is alive the seed is viable, if the embryo is dead the seed is not viable.

A seeds viability is affected by a number of different conditions. Some plants do not produce seeds that have functional complete embryos or the seed may have no embryo at all, often called "empty seeds". Pathogens can damage or kill the seed while it is still in the flower or after it is harvested. Environmental conditions like improper long-term storage and the age of the seed affects its health and germination ability. Seeds containe a living embryo and over time cells die...they cannot be replaced...sometimes seeds are just to old.

b.) Seed Dormancy: There are two main groups (internal and external) of seed dormancy which contain five possible causes of the dormancy. This section is very important because it helps us define the type of dormancy so we may then better understand how to break the dormancy and germinate the seed. Seeds may become dormant in a few weeks or even a few days under extreme conditions.

True dormancy
("innate dormancy" - internal)
Is when a seed fails to germinate under optimal environmental conditions. This is caused by conditions within the seed that prevent germination under normally ideal conditions.

Physiological dormancy
("endogenous dormancy" - internal)
Is caused by conditions within the embryo itself. This can be caused when seeds have not gone through "stratification" (to simulate "after-ripening"). This can prevent seed germination until the chemical inhibitors are broken down or are no longer produced by the seed after stratification.

Combinational dormancy
("double dormancy" - internal/external)
Is when a seed has more than one type of dormancy...this is fairly common.

Physical dormancy
("exogenous dormancy" - external)
Is caused by conditions outside of the embryo. For example, if the shell is too hard or thick it can be impermeable to water or the exchange of gases...the seed coat physically prevents water from reaching and activating the embryo.

Induced dormancy
("seed quiescence" - external)
Naturally occurs when the seed dries after being harvested (aka "seed hibernation"). We are not concerned with seed quiescence because this is not a problematic dormancy as the seed will germinate when the environmental conditions are optimal.

c.) Seed Hibernation: Is when seeds fail to germinate due to a lack of environmental factor(s) essential to life (water, sunlight, nutrients, etc.). Hibernation is generally a short lived experience as it morphs into innate dormancy after a few months to a year or more. We are not concerned with hibernation because the seed will germinate if given the proper environment.

-----------------------------
up next...solutions for different types of dormancy...then the step-by-step guide!

Dormant Seed Germination 101
Part 2: "Breaking dormancy"

In this section I will detail the methods used to "break" (bring out of dormancy by germinating) seeds.

Types of dormancy and ways to Break the Dormancy:

The methods I will describe are horticultural standards but I have trailered them for cannabis seeds and their natural "after-ripening" process (e.g. rough handling [animal stomach, etc], winter of 2-6 months [depending on genotype], etc).

-------------------------------------

problem: True dormancy ("innate dormancy" - internal)
solution: Cold Stratification ("moist-chilling")

This method is meant to simulate the winter a seed would naturally encounter in the wild. Seeds in the temperate zones of the world often remain covered with humus for weeks or months and are subjected to chilling temperatures which help break the rest period.

Seeds are placed in a lightly moistened bunch of organic matter (coco-coir) and placed into refrigerator.

One thing to consider is the seeds genotype; is it mainly stative, indica, a landrace? This question is important and should be used to customize cold stratification to mimic the seeds natural after-ripening environment. A haze should be kept at warmer temps (40-45F) for a shorter time period (1-2 months)...where an Afghani should be kept at cooler temps (35-40F) for a longer time period (2-3) months. What about moisture content? Is the organic matter (hummus, dung, etc) that the seeds naturally after-ripen in moist or dry?

Benefits of cold stratification:
-softens shell to facilitate h20 absorption during "seed priming"
seeds imbibe water and in the moist chill they after-ripen

-------------------------------------

problem: Physiological dormancy ("endogenous dormancy" - internal)
solution: Cold stratification

-------------------------------------

problem: Physical dormancy ("exogenous dormancy" - external)
solution: Scarification

The seed will not germinate until the seed coat is altered physically because the seed shell is hard and moisture cannot penetrate to the embryo. Any process of breaking, scratching, or mechanically altering the seed coat to make it more permeable to water and gases is known as scarification.

In nature, scarification often occurs by falling seeds, freezing temperatures or microbial activities. These modify the seed coat during the winter. Scarification can also occur as seeds pass through the digestive tract of various animals.

Benefits of scarification:
-scratching shell allows greater h2o penetration from outside the shell
-trimming off very tip of seeds allows h2o to enter, activate embryo and begin softening shell from inside

-------------------------------------

problem: Induced dormancy ("seed quiescence" - external)
solution: Proper germinating environment

IMO this is the same as "seed hibernation", both can be solved by giving seeds the proper environment...see my next post for that!

-------------------------------------

problem: Combinational dormancy ("double dormancy" - internal/external)
solution: See all 'solutions' above...

-------------------------------------

up next...the guide...then the final chapter...why I'm using what I'm using in the seed soak
 
Part 2

Dormant Seed Germination 101
Part 3: The guide

1. wash hands in good medical grade soap and sterilize all tools. I want to wear gloves but it's damn hard to hold the seeds

2. throughly scarify seeds w/mild sandpaper. You can put seeds into a film canister with sandpaper glue to it; then just shake the canister to scarify the seeds.

3. boil a quart of distilled h2o for 10 minutes

4. put pre-expanded and leeched hand full of coco coir into boiling water and let boil for 5-10 min. Take coir out of h2o can let cool and dry out until very lightly moist (shake and squeeze).

5. put seeds in small bunch of very lightly moist coir, very lightly packed into a cup. Put the cup into fridge for 2-3 months at 40F to simulate the soil in the winter. Make sure to check seeds often (daily) to make sure they are not germinating in the coir and it's not too cold. (remember to think about your seeds genotype!)

6. use sterilized razor to cut off the very tip of the pointy side of the seed (the side that opens, not the hinge!)...careful not to crush/damage shell or seedling inside! (thanks c-ray, good one!)

7. soak seeds (aka "on-farm seed priming") in with the following ingredients and keep in a dark place. Use aquarium heater to heat water to 80F and soak for about 20 hours. (I used cc not ml as it's way easier to measure small amounts of liquids with a syringe)

ingredients
1 liter distilled h2o kept at 80F degrees
.5cc homemade AEM (1:10,000=.5cc or .5ml per liter) <--not necessary but good to have
1cc blk strap molasses
1cc earthworm castings tea
2cc seaweed/kelp liquid extract
2cc fulvic acid
1 drop superthrive
air stone
ph of 6.5

8. put humidity dome over seeding mat and set the mat to 80 degrees. To build up humidity and sanitize the dome lightly spray inside of dome with mix of 1 liter h2o and 2cc 3% h2o2

9. put seeds on new, clean paper towel and fill spray bottle with seed soaking solution (e.castings, superthirve, etc...not AEM). Spray the seeds and the paper towel to moisten both of them. Then lightly fold the p.towel over seeds to keep seeds moist.

10. put p.towel and seeds into humidity dome.

11. check and open p.towel a few times a day to ensure fresh air and proper moister content. seeds can take 2+ weeks to crack the shell.

12. if seeds begin sprout then use tweezers, razor blade, etc to split shell to allow seedling to easily sprout. Put back into p.towel and allow seeds to germinate further...until sprouts root is half the length of your pinky fingernail.

13. transplant germinated seedlings into medium of choice.

-----------------------------

up next...why I'm using what I'm using in the seed soak

Dormant Seed Germination 101
Part 4: Seed priming mix explained

Wanna know why I suggested each ingredient for the seed soak? well here ya' go...

Steam distilled h2o
This is the purest water you can buy it's pretty inexpensive too.

Earthworm castings tea
Contains a good deal of beneficial microbes (if fresh), along with macro nutrients, humics and they should have a positive symbiotic interaction with the seeds.

Liquid seaweed/kelp
This contains a good deal of natural hormones, minerals, auxins, cytokinins and gibberellins along with P and K which is good for seed germination.

Activated Effective Microorganisms (not necessary but good to have)
I'm using AEM as a form of stratification, they should weaken shell and have a positive symbiotic interaction with the seeds.

Black strap molasses (organic)
Used as a food source for the AEM and it adds natural sugars to h20 which has been found to reduce transplant shock.

Fulvic acid
If seeds are soaked with fulvic then they produce stronger and more vigorous roots, earlier too.

Superthrive
This contains B vitamins which reduces shock and contains triacontanol which promotes root growth.
 
Best of luck germinating your seeds and thanks for sharing this info Mu.

Mystery seeds, makes me wonder from where these came.
I bet that this little container has a nice story behind it.

I can put it no plainer than by saying that @musashi was the choose one 🙏The Universe has decide the path that this seeds will follow.

I bet gold on this seeds. I more than 100% sure some will germinate!!!!!
 
Eagerly watching. I have a few old seeds I want to sprout. I haven't much hope for them. I really inly care about one single seed anyways. If you get good germination I'll treat my lone seed however you did your timecapsul and hope for the best.

Fingers crossed you get a good % to pop.

Diesel840
 
Aloha fellow firewalkers!

Well, I am doing a test run with a similar "hatching" recipe as noted earlier. I'll use this concoction on my current flowering plants and observe their reaction. I pre-heated de-chlorinated water to 75-78F. I then added the following:
1 tbsp biochar
2 tbsp EC
1 tbsp molasses
1 tbsp kelp liquid
10cc fulvic acid
1 tbsp photosynthesis plus-O (bacteria and mycorrhizal product)
1 tbsp alfalfa feed (Triacontanol)

I'll cover and cook for 24 hours. Stay tuned.

heater.jpgjuice.jpg
 
Nice one Mu! I've got a container with some super old seeds as well that I'd like to try and pop. I've tried some before using different ppm solutions of Gibberellic acid and also used some bean enzymes (mung beans). I got some to pop but not sprout so I'm watching on with intent to how yours go mate! Good luck chosen one, faith in you, we have 😃
 
Aloha fellow firewalkers!
@Proud Kraut I too was hoping he had some esoteric knowledge to share with us about germinating old seeds. Sigh...
Seeds are still in the fridge to similate dormancy for another 1-2 weeks. I know, there is the continuing argument as to freezing first. And I wasn't willing to try the soil/coir wrap and freeze method.
As I continue to assemble the tools necessary for this little experiment, I bot a micrometer to use to slightly crack seeds after a soak.
61oxKLesV1L._SX522_.jpg

I plan to get temperature controlled heating mats too as my current ones cannot control temperature. What other juju can I use to conjure up the ancient spirits of these little menehunes? I'm thinking a short trip to Hawaii might help hahaha- but that's just the Holy Grail talking on a cold and rainy day.

The tea made had a positive response in the grow room. The plants remained satisfied for an extra day without water or nutrient. Can't wait to try this mixture out on the seeds but still researching and remain open-minded.

I am keeping my expectations to a minimum considering the length of time. But the little voice of hope whispers, "but they were stored in a relatively air tight container in mild temperature." But, but, but it would be so cool if you know what I mean 🥰

mu
 
Aloha fellow firewalkers!
@Proud Kraut I too was hoping he had some esoteric knowledge to share with us about germinating old seeds. Sigh...
Seeds are still in the fridge to similate dormancy for another 1-2 weeks. I know, there is the continuing argument as to freezing first. And I wasn't willing to try the soil/coir wrap and freeze method.
As I continue to assemble the tools necessary for this little experiment, I bot a micrometer to use to slightly crack seeds after a soak.
View attachment 77657

I plan to get temperature controlled heating mats too as my current ones cannot control temperature. What other juju can I use to conjure up the ancient spirits of these little menehunes? I'm thinking a short trip to Hawaii might help hahaha- but that's just the Holy Grail talking on a cold and rainy day.

The tea made had a positive response in the grow room. The plants remained satisfied for an extra day without water or nutrient. Can't wait to try this mixture out on the seeds but still researching and remain open-minded.

I am keeping my expectations to a minimum considering the length of time. But the little voice of hope whispers, "but they were stored in a relatively air tight container in mild temperature." But, but, but it would be so cool if you know what I mean 🥰

mu
I'm hoping that you get some plants from these seeds. :)

That micrometer is a good idea, I bought something that works similar and will test it on my older seeds.

 
I looked at those and they were featured in the video @Proud Kraut dropped on us. I was concerned about manipulating/orienting the seed to crack on-edge with that small opening. The mic will serve many other purposes (automotive) as well. $12 after discount on AMZN.

mu
They claim that it is not nessesary to position the seeds to crack it on the seem?
I have some hemps seeds laying around, will try it on these first before I use it on my prescious seeds.😅
 
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