Prodigal Son
New member
Yours truly has the honor of throwing these into soil for a test run- and I have to admit I am a bit giddy already folks!
There are several threads currently running on this strain. I am not sure which was the father and which was the mother- I was going to post that info as it is crucial, I just don't have time at the moment. I do know this was supposed to be a small batch by Neville, and I look at the background of this little bean and think OMG! this could be some serious stuff!
I use an organic soil medium composed of:
2 parts organic soil compost (homemade worm castings and potting soils recycled)
1 part vermiculite
1 part sphagnum peat moss
1 to 1.5 parts pearlite
1 part straight worm castings
I grow in homemade containers that have a res bottom and the plants set on a screened soil area above the res drawing water and nutes via a wick method. I will grow in a small container (20 oz) from germ through sexing then cull any males bar a select one for pollen collection. By removing the bottom of the cup, I can set the cups into the growboxes and allow root growth to be controlled to specific portions of the soil bed so as not to disturb roots when pulling males.
I use a 430 watt Son Agro Gold m/H bulb for veg cycle starting about week 2. Seedlings and sprouts are under CFL's and florescent t-12 40 watters at the start. The florescents also supplement my grow space as the plants gain heighth as they cover the wall in my cab.
For flowering, I switch to a Hortilux 430 watt Eye, and swap out the cool floros for warm colored.
The space is approximately 3 x 6 x 8, and I can run up to 4 boxes in the space, but never do. Each box could hold any combination of (8) plants for SOG, (3 to 4) for SCROG, or (2 to 3) if you want to grow them all the way out. Depending on the ratios, I'll decide how to grow these.... lots of flexibility with my set up as it is all I have- 1 room!
I germed in paper towel at 80f and as you can see- they are popping very nicely. I move to cups once they show a bit more tail.
I use no nutes until seedling breaks soil, and then only water until first set of true leaves show allowing soil to dry slightly between waterings. I then switch to a feeding of 2 tblsp per gallon of Alaska "Start-up" which is a 2-1-2 ratio liquid nute.
Once plant is on its 3rd and 4th set of true leaves, I will move to Alaska Fish Fertilizer (liquid at 5-1-1) up until 2 weeks before switching to 12/12- then I use Neptune's Harvest Fish Fertilizer Liquid which is a 2-4-1. I use Alaska MorBloom (0-10-10) for flower. All nutes are fed at 2 tblsp. per gallon on average. I do up the amounts at each feeding cycle depending on strain needs, but this works pretty much with everything. I always boost the MorBloom at the 2nd and 6th week of flower to 4 tblsp. per gallon. I will only feed on alternating weeks. The water uptake (food) depends on cab temps predominately, and since my environment is controlled, I keep the temps at about 75-85 during the veg period at all times. Humidity hovers in the 30% to 60% range on average. During flower, I drop temps at night to average between 50 and 70 degrees with it dipping into the mid 40's towards the end of flower on select nights.
I know I said I was going to start these later in the month, but I was getting an itchy trigger finger- besides, the days are still getting longer; summer is just starting and I can always use the natural light until my cab is complete.
I am sure I have left out things that may be of interest, so ask away!
There are several threads currently running on this strain. I am not sure which was the father and which was the mother- I was going to post that info as it is crucial, I just don't have time at the moment. I do know this was supposed to be a small batch by Neville, and I look at the background of this little bean and think OMG! this could be some serious stuff!
I use an organic soil medium composed of:
2 parts organic soil compost (homemade worm castings and potting soils recycled)
1 part vermiculite
1 part sphagnum peat moss
1 to 1.5 parts pearlite
1 part straight worm castings
I grow in homemade containers that have a res bottom and the plants set on a screened soil area above the res drawing water and nutes via a wick method. I will grow in a small container (20 oz) from germ through sexing then cull any males bar a select one for pollen collection. By removing the bottom of the cup, I can set the cups into the growboxes and allow root growth to be controlled to specific portions of the soil bed so as not to disturb roots when pulling males.
I use a 430 watt Son Agro Gold m/H bulb for veg cycle starting about week 2. Seedlings and sprouts are under CFL's and florescent t-12 40 watters at the start. The florescents also supplement my grow space as the plants gain heighth as they cover the wall in my cab.
For flowering, I switch to a Hortilux 430 watt Eye, and swap out the cool floros for warm colored.
The space is approximately 3 x 6 x 8, and I can run up to 4 boxes in the space, but never do. Each box could hold any combination of (8) plants for SOG, (3 to 4) for SCROG, or (2 to 3) if you want to grow them all the way out. Depending on the ratios, I'll decide how to grow these.... lots of flexibility with my set up as it is all I have- 1 room!
I germed in paper towel at 80f and as you can see- they are popping very nicely. I move to cups once they show a bit more tail.
I use no nutes until seedling breaks soil, and then only water until first set of true leaves show allowing soil to dry slightly between waterings. I then switch to a feeding of 2 tblsp per gallon of Alaska "Start-up" which is a 2-1-2 ratio liquid nute.
Once plant is on its 3rd and 4th set of true leaves, I will move to Alaska Fish Fertilizer (liquid at 5-1-1) up until 2 weeks before switching to 12/12- then I use Neptune's Harvest Fish Fertilizer Liquid which is a 2-4-1. I use Alaska MorBloom (0-10-10) for flower. All nutes are fed at 2 tblsp. per gallon on average. I do up the amounts at each feeding cycle depending on strain needs, but this works pretty much with everything. I always boost the MorBloom at the 2nd and 6th week of flower to 4 tblsp. per gallon. I will only feed on alternating weeks. The water uptake (food) depends on cab temps predominately, and since my environment is controlled, I keep the temps at about 75-85 during the veg period at all times. Humidity hovers in the 30% to 60% range on average. During flower, I drop temps at night to average between 50 and 70 degrees with it dipping into the mid 40's towards the end of flower on select nights.
I know I said I was going to start these later in the month, but I was getting an itchy trigger finger- besides, the days are still getting longer; summer is just starting and I can always use the natural light until my cab is complete.
I am sure I have left out things that may be of interest, so ask away!
You would think I was raised by wolves!
