NFT hydroponics questions (and answers)

  • Thread starter Thread starter cola bro
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let see the DWC threads then....:D
the good thing a bout the recirc is that the airstones aren't needed in the growing container, giving the roots a rest from the mechanical damage that the rolling boil effect from the bubbles creates.. you just have to move water around the system as fast as you can (within reason).
sensi you and I seem to grow very similar, although i keep 1.2 for the entire flowering period. and can also introduce new plants to the system at any point, making things perpetual.. I just run 10% veg nutes..
peace
BL
 
Here's heaths teaching on nutrient concentration

I will go into detail about nutrient concentrations because it seems to be an area which a lot of growers don't fully understand.

I have seen quite a lot of bad advice from experienced growers who advise to "increase the nutrient concentrations until you see tip burn and then back off slightly" I will try explain why this is bad advice.

Nutrient salts can cause harm to plants if they are in high enough concentration in water or soil. This effect is mainly indirect by pulling moisture out of roots and reducing the uptake of water and nutrients to affected plants. This is the cause of tip and edge burn of leaves, if the nutrient concentration was maintained, slow growth, nutrient deficiencies, wilting and eventual death of the plant would occur if the problem is not corrected.

This is the reason why, Water movement in plants is a factor of osmotic pressure and capillary action. Osmotic pressure is defined as water flowing through a permeable membrane in the direction of higher salt concentrations. Water will continue to flow in the direction of the highest salt concentration until the salts have been diluted to the point that the concentrations on both sides of the membrane are equal.

A good example of this is pouring salt on a slug or snail, the salt concentration outside the slug is highest, which causes the water from inside the slug's body to cross the skin membrane. The slug becomes dehydrated and dies.

For osmosis to occur, water must move from a more dilute (the nutrient solution) to a more concentrated compartment (the plant). If you were to water your plant with sea water the plant would wither and die as the salt water now extracts water from the plant instead of replenishing it. So basically high levels of salinity will lead to high concentrations of salt in the plant tissues which will severely damage metabolic processes.

here is a grow chart which will help explain why there is no advantage to feeding your plants high nutrient concentrations.


heath-robinson-34876-albums-heath-picture850534-grocurve.jpg


notice on the chart that there is a deficient zone where the plant is not meeting its needs and growth is poor. A low zone where the plant is growing but lacks all the necessary nutrients to sustain good growth and yield.

Now the important part, you will notice if you look at the sufficient and high zones that there is no advantage to feeding your plants at higher concentrations than is needed. Notice also that growth and yield suffers sharply once the plant is over fertilised. If you feed your plant until it is toxic and showing signs of tip burn and you back off slightly you are still in the excess zone and your yields will suffer to some degree.

I have found that the sufficient zone for marijuana is in the range from an Ec of 1.0 to 1.6 I personally run in at an EC of approx 1.2 and never exceed 1.4

I hope that helps explain why I do what I do.


Heath
Click to expand...

So I take from that, that if your plants roots are in such a happy place then everything you give them will be made available, and working on the lower side of nutrient concentrations, shows a less steep curve of deficiency..
What was your plant telling you S13? and what plant was it if you dont mind me asking?
peace
BL
 
It sound like a recirc would do you some favours S13.. there are many advantages, ph and ec buffering is just one... due to the amount of water in the system.
there are different ways that people do res change outs too, some once weekly, some, once fortnightly etc. but what's best? and what's necessary?
peace
BL
 
Here's what I've been doing of late..
I have 2 res's, one is active, one is passive.
By this I mean the active res is part of the recirculating system. Water flows from the active res to the grow containers and back again, on a constant cycle.
The active res is topped up via a float operated valve (or ball cock), which is fed from a 'passive' res. the passive res is a water butt elevated higher than the active res.
I mix my nutes and set my ph in the passive res. this then fills the active res and the system with the correct nutrient solution.. Instead of doing a complete change out, what I do is remove 10 litres a day from the active res, which in turn gets replenished by the passive res. this keeps the active water in the system fresh.. and removes the unwanted..
I find this very easy and stable. it keeps my labour down to a minimum.
I know heath doesn't do it this way, he keeps the active res topped up from the mains cold water supply via a ball cock.. and when his ec drops from 1.2 to 1.0 he adds nutrient to bring it back up to 1.2.... then every two weeks he does a complete res change out. So on my next run I'll keep my passive res with plain water and try heaths method.
"What about ph?" surely it's going to rise as the res gets topped up with plain water... well yes it does.. but how much of a prob is this...? and what are the safe parameters to work within?
peace
BL
 
Hey guys, nice thread.

I like your reasoning and it shows how important water chemistry is in hydroponic systems. You should try fish keeping - now THAT is all about water...

Here's my 2 pence RE: RO water vs tap water.

RO water is not really about EC (unless your tap water is really low quality...)
It is a little bit about Chlorine (and maybe Fl - if your water company is naughty...) but is isn't so hard to remove chlorine from tap water...

It is all about pH.

It is about different pHs in the same tap water (even from 1 day to the next)
It is about pH buffers (there is not any buffer in RO water - there could be a strong buffer in tap water)
It is about pH bounceback (the dreaded, especially for Discus keepers)
It is about not using pH up or pH down in your solution (although clever growers don't need it, even with tap water...)
Most of all, it is about EASILY getting the EXACT pH and keeping it!

Done properly, an RO based solution's pH NEVER drifts. We all know that a constant pH is what our plants need (the actual pH depends on how you have 'trained' your plants but it should always be between 5.5 and 6.5. The point is that once you have decided where you like your pH, you should keep it there.)

RO water also gives peace of mind and is PERFECT for taking cuttings with.

The waste water (upto 10 times more than the RO water produced) is used as a pH up and buffer to mix back (as explained before, somwhere) but is also collected in huge water butts in the back garden and used for the fish and the orchards. It is still 3 times mechanically filtered, carbon filtered and 99% pure - no chlorine, metals or larger dissolved particles.

I don't care how good your tap water is (unless you are lucky enough to get spring water from your tap, which is not unheard of - I have it in the village in Cyprus, where I am now,) you should invest in an RO. If you can't find a cheap one let me know, I will direct you to a guy I know ;) He is called RO MAN.

Of course the results may not differ if you are a superb grower anyway but it will always be easier. If you are a slightly inexperienced grower it is better to use RO water.

If you are like me and take a LOT of cuts (for one reason or another, ahem...) you could get an RO unit - it helps.

Of course I am no authority and could just be plain wrong...but this is how I see it anyway!

RE water fall - I am of the belief that your res should be easy to get at and not disturbing of the roots or plants when moved, refilled, etc.

For this reason it is my belief that the table and res should be well seperated and the table could be a few feet above the res, with the water falling back into the res from a reasonable height.

RE: bubble stones - I have NO authority on these at all...use the best oxygenators you can find...BUT if they didn't work my fish would all die. When they have become twisted or blocked my fish HAVE died...so they must work at least enough for the fish, anyway. If I went back to hydroponics I would oxygenate a different way and only use stones as water movers to stop any 'dead' or non-moving zones in the nute solution. Breaking the surface of the solution is important, it seems to me.


RE: yield - hydro can't be beaten (but it can be approached with todays great media!)

RE:quality - I just finished curing a bunch of organic Critical Haze (Grover's or the 'Lemon Candy' cut. I know you have this cut,Billyboy - you tried it yet?) It is amongst the tastiest bud I ever smoked. OK, I only selected this one for taste and high so the yield is not great but I smoke this shit myself. I prefer to smoke soil grown weed everytime and I smoke so much weed that what can I do?!?

I am going to attempt a years worth of persy from my outdoor crop that way I can just hydro the ALL the indoors and get a larger indoor crop!!

Great contibution you 2. Fascinating. Billy - I need to pop up and see you soon. I need to absorb your genius 1 on 1!!!! I have a few 'pressies' for you anyway..

GS
 
Passive Res.

I have a 'broker' (:o) who uses a passive res system (a raised water butt) and an active res with a ball-cock valve caller (as described above)

It is perfect for him as he runs a remote grow, which is large.

For smaller grows I would probably not even have a pure water refill, like Heath Robinson does (BTW I bought 16 actual W.Heath Robinson plates in a first edition Hans Christian Anderson published by 'Boots the Chemist' around 1913 for my Mother's birthday last week...top top top :D) but top up the active res by hand. This way total control is achieved and you can 'finesse' your solution easily...also it means nutes aren't held dissolved for longer periods of time than they need to be (don't they degrade once dissolved - even before, sometimes?) Again, I could be bullshitting here. Please feel free to correct my errors.
 
Hi there people i've been using nft for a while and found the main thing to worry about is the temp of the solution,i dont have space, so i keep the res in the same room i grow in a good rule of thumb is to keep the room temp about 24c.this greatly helps maintain the res at around 20c.I keep a 200lt tank that gets churned by 2 pumps dropping water into the res like a water fall through garden hose,i use cannazym to keep things clean change the tanks every week have a good slope on my trays.

I start off with a rooted cut then transplant into a prepared 4inch grodan block were they are vegged up untill they are root bound,and air pruning is achived usally taking about 14days then straight on to the nft system which flows nutrients down the gullies,growth is unreal and the only time it goes wrong is in summer when high temps are unavoidable.

I have never used ro and i really dought you need to,my ph does not fluctuate like people speak of ,nore the ec the only prob i have is keeping up with the amount of food the plants take in.

Taking this opertunity to thank billy liar for all the great info he shares with us on hydro.Ps low ec works a charm i try to maintain 12-14 and when im feeling lazy 16.

fxginbcn i never heard of acid doing that kind of damage only add small bits at a time to achieve a ph of about 5.8 for coco good luck mate
 
well, each to his own but it sort of helps with a point - everyone's tap water is different.

If your tap water is good, lucky you! RO water is hugely different to tap water. Don't think anything otherwise..

FX - how you going? Are your outdoor plants in pots or the ground?
If you are using Nitric acid as a pH down then you are adding Nitrogen to your solution. This is not necessarily bad but you are not adding as a nute and have to put it in before you've even thought about whether your plants need more N or not..also, this is not N in the way your plants want it best. I suspect you may be right about it not leaving much room for food before your EC levels get too high..also, why do you use nitric and not phosphoric acid?
If your pH is 8 and your EC is very high then you must be using HUGE quantities of pH down. Firstly just to use up the huge buffer your water DOES have then to actually move the pH... Your yields will double if you switch to an RO. That is a promise. Don't listen to Pluko - that's my advise.

Pluko - if you haven't used RO water then use it before telling people it doesn't work. If you have used it and still doubt it works, tell away but your water is so not the same as fx's water. It's like telling someone else not to eat a pear because you don't like apples...
Does your pH really not move at all? Really?
Really? My tap water changes from 1 day to the next.
and what are the EC levels from your tap water? Not 0, that's for sure...so what IS causing the EC in your tap water? Do you know? How?
Hmmmmm. and the pipes that brought the water to you? old? what are they made of? any small breaks or leaks? how do you know?
 
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Very informative read, thanks for directing me here Billy!

Steers me even more towards a constantly flowing recirculating DWC style set up like your tree farms...the DO advantages with the constant flow seem a huge plus
 
fxginbcn said:
hey guys.... have a non NFT question but its related to groovers last post

im still havin a hard time figuring out about my water... ive been using tap water, which i place in a 16L bucket with a centrifugal pump placed near the surface to churn the water and is left out for 24-48 hours to evaporate chlorine and oxygenate my water.... my tap water is very hard and has a high pH of around 8.something


one of my questions is about using pH down, the product i bought is made of nitric acid..... will using this pH down kill the micorrhizae-mycellium im using, or any other beneficial bacteria in my medium???.... my medium by the way is 50-50 mix of worm castings and coco (switching up from plagron to this soilless medium as per a gardener´s suggestion).

i like to get my pH to about 6,5 though i forgot to ask my gardener friend and at this time have no idea what the ideal pH is for my coco-humus mix..... any ideas¿? and any ideas on how to lower it without damaging the benefial micobes and bacteria???.... im already going through an effort trying to eliminate chlorine from my water, dont need the pH down to fuck it up too...

while im at it, groover, or anyone.... help me with my internal debate of switching from my tap water to RO water

let me explain my doubts.... when using ph dowed tap water on any outside plants, theyve all looked great... herb plants and non-herb plants... they respond and look great outside

but inside.... different story.... my plants look different... yellowing leaves going from the bottom of the plant up midway thru flowerng....

now i know what youre gonna say... that it could be overwatering, underfeeding, high temps... and that only i would know... but since my water is so hard im assuming my EC is pretty high, so im scared of adding to many nutes so as not to burn my herb.... im gonna be doing several transplants this time which i didnt do before, my medium has alot of worm casting and i veg for a few days max, and straight to SOG flowering....


so since my outside plants on tap water look great i think my water is fine after i dechlorinate

but when i look at my inside plants, i realize that because of mytapwaters´ high EC, i cant add too many more nutes and i think maybe thats one reason why leaves might get yellow from bottom up... this makes me think i should get RO water.....

but then i wonder, why does my water on my outside plants work but not inside, so i suppose its not the water but me, something im doing wrong indoors, and i dont need an RO unit...

fuck, i think im screwed and i come off as a complete idiot, so please be gentle and honest with ANY advice i can get on the matter....:D

love an respect

btw.... i got 10 seeds in dirt under fluoros, 1 cali orange bud, and 9 Leda.... 8 germinated as of last night and all went in dirt.... this morning i woke up to 5 new little guys with theirfirst heads poppin out... learning how to do the whole process myself now, not just relying on cuttings from others.... so my next run is gonna be with real MNS beans.... psyched

EDIT: 7 beans have popped the soil... there were only 5 but now i see 7..... 2 popped in 3 HOURS!!! wow
Click to expand...

Good Day
Use Nitric Acid For Hard Water And Use Phosphoric Acid For Soft Water;)
Joe:)
 
Hi everyone,:)
thanks for keeping things going....
Groover, you welcome any time brother, the mrs cant wait to meet "some wierdo from the internet"...LOL (well she lives with one... hehehe), seriously if I'm in your welcome up....;)
I did keep fish too (cats and loaches mainly).. I find there are a lot of similarities to hydroponics (and I made all my own filters), cant remember all the details but fish don't like too much oxygen in the water, do they? And Ph is much more critical with fish, discus seem among the most finnicky..
the passive res or mains top up, serve a few purposes in the systems I use, keeping the level in the res the same as the level in the growing container is paramount (depending on system design). this so you dont end up with an air gap between your inner pot and water leavel (specific to RDWC). in this air gap you only grow cord roots which are basically a waste of space.. close the gap and grow DWC roots that take up nutrients..
I'll use joes pic to demonstrate cord roots (sorry joe:o)
attachment.php


pluko, I've never used RO water either, I believe if you dont need to then the waste water is unnecessary. (my water in my new place is awfull, but I dont run any hydroponics here (but yes groovers right I really could use RO for other things;))). EC CF and ppm are all a measure of TDS total dissolved solids, these solids affect how well the solution conducts electricity, (testers measure electrical current through your solution), and as heath mentioned, osmotic pressure has to be in favour of water moving into the plant, Osmosis is the movement of water, through a semi permeable membrane, from a place of high water concentration to a place of low water concentration.. so whatever makes you readings high will affect osmosis...
Cannas hard water formula works good to a point, if your tapwater ec reading is quite high, although any higher than 0.5 and I'd be inclined to switch to RO..
FXG try buying RO water from an aquatic suppliers or fish shop.. for a few weeks, see if you notice any difference, if so buy a RO filter...:)
Hey sensi13, hope you shit comes together dude, I've had some scares in my time, and got caught once:eek: the scares keep coming tho, and I'd rather lose any plant than lose my freedom... stay on your toes...
hey joe, nice tip... anyone used cider vinegar as ph down? smells great hehehe
So then ph and NFT/recirculating hydro...
people think keeping the ideal ph of 5.8 is crucial in these systems....
But why does ph have an ideal value of 5.8 for hydroponicaly grown plants??
Ph is the measure of potential hydrogen.... hence the abbreviation ph..
this factor affects a plants (or roots) ability to "take up" different elements from the nutrient solution. Between a ph of 4.0 and 7.0 there will be no detrimental effect on the root system. By this I mean there will be no damage caused as some believe there will. And at any point within this range, the root system works as well as any other point in this range...
What does happen along this scale is that different ph values make different elements available to the plant. Not to be confused with nutrient deficiencies.

this chart helps to explain.
pH.jpg


you can see that between 5.5 and 7.0 most elements are fully available to the plant..
So however you choose to run you res, there is no probs with ph drifting up.
good practice is to set ph at 5.5 and let it drift up by its self over the period between res change outs...

So what about nutrients, which are "best", which are worst and what's the difference between them all?

peace
BL

ps no probs flwpwr;)
 
I Think That Ones A Pistol Pete Image

Hi Billy L:)
Hey No Probs My Friend ; Its Probably A Pistol Pete :D

My M.O ; " Fool Me Once, Shame On You. Fool Me Twice, Shame On Me "
M.O ( Modus Operandi Or Move On )

Right cb:rolleyes:

Joe:)
 
First off i didnt want to imply that ro is not usefull so sorry for that and yes you should try it if you havent.
I live in a very hard water area of north london and sometimes the ph of my water is 7. and sometimes 8 and the ec .6.
What ive noticed is that leaving water to sit for a day or so with a small air stone pumping through seems to lower the ec a little and the ph seems to stay stable.At this point i correct the ph ec and off i go.
Now i check my res every day at simular times and i dont get any wild swings in ph though it is 200lt,i use canna aqua and i dont have any probs flushing,
Maybe i should use ro but the point im making is that i in 10years of growing in hard london water i havnt any probs because of the water being hard.
As a hydro grower i see most probs when summer is in full swing.Most variaties ive grow prefer lower ph of around 5.5 i read somewere that going too low 4 will ruin the structure of rockwool.
Over fertilising once or twice has a much more adverse effect on plants then not using ro and i believe good maintance of soulotion can be all you need for a successfull grow.
Maybe i should go and buy a ro and do 2 604s next to each other to see one with ro and one without to see the difference:o

In all fairness i have to be honest with my result with hard water and hydro it simply works
 
The 604s are one up from 424s my man, i meant using two 604s side by side to compare one with ro and one without.
 
Cola bro?

WTF, what happened to cola???
started a great thread then does one???? hope you are ok cb.... I really enjoyed our chats, would be nice to hook up one time....:) be safe dude....;)


jkp.. damn that pistol pete...hehehee.. Hope you are feeling well joe... we plan to be in cardigan bay area in october, so we should get the wooly jumpers on and sit on the beach trading stories...:cool: Reading some of your posts, I realise how close I've actualy been to your house without knowing it... LOL

Hey S13, wait a sec, johnny cash is on the radio.................hahhh thats better.. (why dont posts have any timescale????) LOL cover of hurt by NIN..
sorry back to topics in hand... thats a great bit of info there S13,
the plant may sequester them in vacuoles (storage compartments in plant cells) which would concentrate them and accumulate...these are undesirable to smoke IMO
Click to expand...
This for me rings true with the reasons NOT to use H2O2.. I was told that the free radicals build up in the plant and create a nasty taste???? what do you know or think about that one sensi??
I'm lucky enough to have water at 0.2ec at my grow location, which IMO is fantastic for tapwater.. and my system including passive res holds 600 litres. So if I went RO how much waste water would I get from all that???? I'm not knocking RO in any way at all.. I can get access to hypodermic quality water if I need, my friend works at a pharmaceutical manufacturers... this is 100% H2O the purest of three grades he says.. but some articles I've read in the past recommend not using truly pure water (for growing not cuts), as there are some elements you will not find in Hydro nutes, I'm sure sulphur was one...??
the thing is growing plants is governed by limiting factors.. and I think if you are growing in a well designed hydro system, then tap water at 0.5 ec probably wont be your limiting factor... if it is the rest of your grow room must be some thing...:)
the ph thing; no I've not adjusted to 4.0, there would be no point as you mention, not many elements are made available at all.. my point is that this ph wont kill your plants. the lack of nutrient available would sure make them struggle though... when mixing my tanks, I think nothing of a 5.2ph starting point, (especially when adding back water as a top up).. I once had a problem with pythum, (a lesson learned hard lol) due to not understanding the importance of temp control. to get the grow finished i invested in a UV light filter. Now these 'filters' work by 'sterilising' the solution, they achieve this by killing all bacteria etc, (I would seriously not recommend using these in an active res as a preventative measure) as a result of killing bacteria, I was experiencing ph drop outs at an alarming rate. I'd adjust ph to 5.8/6.0 before bed, and when I got up it would often be around 4.0/4.2. the plants however looked fine, and so did the roots..
He pluko, dont worry bout groover, you southerners get a bit touchy when you get old:p lol.. all opinions are welcome..:) I've made some great progress with the WVM (water vortex magnetiser), I found that running approx 10 litres through it for ten minutes, lowered my ec from 1.0 to 0.8... I think chlorine evaporation was accelerated personally, I've used this water to germ some seeds so we'll see..
I may have to pick up on the subject of nutes next time as I'm really one of the slowest typers on the internet today...LOL:D
joe and pluko, I found my best nft results were using the cheap troughs used for holding rock wool slabs, these were quite thin and I ran at quite a steep angle, 1000lph through each tray, and no capillary matting.. I ran into lots of probs, heehee, blocked returns, water through ceilings you name it, but I ended up with a root mat around an inch and a half deep and results close to my tree machines..
would love to hear how your nute tests went S13, I predict a foto finish.....:rolleyes:
any more ideas on nutes, best; worst, or anyone know what separates the most expensive from the chaepest, or the one parts from the three parts????
peace
BL
 
hey Pluko - I kinda meant swings in the source (ie tap) water as opposed to swings in the nutrient solution..it just helps to know where you are starting from...with hydro, the water is everything. I can get moody sometimes, though - apologies...I didn't mean to come across all aggressive at all. Sometimes you lose something in the text as opposed to the spoken word (maybe a lack of intonation or facial expressions or something else fucked up...) sorry about that.
My aim is never to piss people off, just help them grow great dope and learn from them, too.

Cola is too busy looking after my plants whilst I holiday in Cyprus (hehe) to post on here! I daren't say how many cuts he repotted for me today. It must have taken him hours! hehehehe I bet he half inched a few freebies for his own set-up, though (X-Cheese.) Good on him!

I grew in North London for a decade (NFT) the water is stored in porous chalk under Enfield. It comes out 'liquid rock' hard and the white deposits covering everything were almost impossible to scrape off!! I used Phosphoric acid as a pH down for the first few years. My yields doubled in a grow when I switched to RO water. Pluko, I'd love you to try it out and let us know what you think. The only trouble is the waste, as Billy points out. I am lucky enough to have a small orchard where I can use the waste water, though...

RE pH down...I always presumed (and it is just that - no hard facts) that it was Nitric for the grow (N) and Phosphoric for the flower (P) but that might be schoolboy. One thing I remember is that neither is particularely good for your plants (I read a scientific paper about it once and did a post on here but it was ages ago and fucked if I can remember what it was all about!:o)

Also, isn't Nitric acid explosive (although at high concentrations)? and doesn't it react REALLY badly when it touches certain metals? It's generally pretty nasty stuff, if I remember rightly..chemistry lessons seem a long long long long time ago now...

Billybo - yes, I agree about pure water (ie H2O) it is not great for the plants.. but using RO involves mixing back with a little waste waterto 'buffer up' and finesse the pH up, too, so maybe that problem is fine but like you said, your water is great anyway, you lucky man. London water is shite shite shite, like in LA... I'll bring up a few litres of RO for you when I chip up, for your cuts...but I really want to see your twin towers (ooer). Tell the missus that I'm may be pretty wierd but I'm also quite pretty..!! :D I'll bring my Southern charm with me...(and a FAT,kind bag of joy..)
 
Safety First

Nitric Acid Only Takes A Wee Dram To Lower Hard Water PH
Petrol Is Also Explosive , As Is A Massive Fart :rolleyes:
Responsible Use And Every Safety Precaution Adopted Goes Without Saying
Gloves N Goggles Are Your Bibs And Braces;)
Do Make Sure To Be Familiar With W.H.I.M.I.S And MSD ( Material Safety Data Sheet)
Nitric Acid Is Available At All Decent Hydroponic Supply Outlets
JKP
 
Its all good grover the only thing i dont like about you is that awful team you support :p thats right im a gooner sorry mate:opoint taken about white deposites all over the holding res i do have to remove this by hand and this is the main reason i change the res every week.
Looking at that chart on ph and available nutrients its clear to see that some nutrients are better absorbed at different ph's wouldnt it then be better to allow ph to climb through the week from say 5.5 to 6.3 to allow the plants to take in all they need,just a guess not telling anyone to try this.Also the main nutrient that seems to able to be taken in at 5.8 seems to be nitrogen but we no that plants need less nitrogen later on might it be worth rising the ph around week 5 or 6 to ph6.3 to make phosphorus and potasium more available or maybe when we pk, again not sure if it actually works like that.Or maybe 5.8 provides the perfect balance of all nutrients.


bl whats going on i personally think canna is best for hydro-canna auqa has the abilaty to maintain a stable ph unlike canna hydro which im sure you no is more suited to run to waste.Ive tried advanced nutrients and find they dont flush well hammer head in particular the yeilds were great but the smoke not so,i get simular results from bloombastic but this seems to taint the bud the same way it smells so that is now unwelcome.The only one part feed ive used is formulex and this works great,very well for cuts but then canna start came along.I think they come in to parts to stop the liquids locking up into unsable salts but ill read around to give a better awnser then that.

later on all
 
well, I'd like to curse your team but, quite frankly, Fabregas is a joy to watch.( I am a big fan of Drogba, too ) and a lot of my friends are Gooners, so I like it when they are doing well - just as long as Spurs are doing better (damn it..)
Still, watching Spurs in the Champions League was really a wonderful thing for me...despite that awful first goal of Bremen's!

RE pH : I always went on the assumption that once set,the pH of Nutrient solution should be left alone but I am reading here about allowing it to rise slowly during the day from 5.5 to 6.5 (or anywhere in between) and it makes sense.

I would say that I noticed my Mango Haze was very sensitive so perhaps this floating pH could be tried out as part of the 'dialling in' process for each plant..

JKP - you are, of course, very right - again! You wise old head, you.

Take care all.
 
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