Help! Advice on living soil

Hi there,

Im quite late to this thread, but living soil is a subject I really love, and can offer a world of advice on.
Making your base mix does not have to be complicated. Your base sounds really rich to me, and with the additions of chicken manure and guano, your mix will definitely run hot, and require around 2 to 3 weeks of cooking to calm down.

A good base mix is organic compost 50 50 fungi/bacteria dominated and or worm castings , peat moss (great ph buffer), and pumice.
50% compost/worm castings
25% peatmoss
25% pumice

Living soils have gone very far in recent years, with goals of GMP grade medical.. living soil scientists have been raising the bar.
This being said, one thing they are steering clear of - is animal manures. They are great, but are at risk of many unwanted contaminants, so generally those high grade living soil grows use anything but. Worm castings being the closest to manure they will use.

The biggest key to "Living Soils" is to actually keep them alive/living! So beneficial microbes, fungis, bacterias, bugs, worms etc can thrive and in turn create a soil food web between them and the plants living within.

"Teaming with Microbes" by Jeff Lowenfels is a brilliant book describing this process.

Making your composts a 50 50 fungi and bacterially dominated compost is a another big key.. this is done by equal ratios of both green and brown waste.

Mulching both green and brown is also very important.. maintaining fungi and bacteria populations.

Forget anything you have learned about dry back... Living soil needs a maintained moisture content.. your plants will thrive in this believe it or not. A digi moisture meter is a key tool, and maintaining 80 to 120mbars is optimum.

Your soil should run itself from here, and keep your plants nice n healthy. Without anything else needed
Additional bonus organic components, dry amendments etc can be applied straight to the top of the soil - I recommend doing this with additional compost and re mulching, Or, as nutrient water drenches.
There are also many great organic amendments now available... Anything with fulvics, and humics is worth buying. Pure amino acids are totally worth using in soil drenches right up untill week 6 of flower. Kelp foliage sprays will make life easy, and greatly encourage sugar exchange between your plants and microbes meaning super healthy plants. Just stop using once flowers are formed.
K Humates, Langbenite, and coconut water are great flowering additives.
You can quite comfortably go water only too.

This soil is sustainable, ie - reusable for many years. I do recommend soil tests/prescriptions and cover crops in between crops

Any other questions regarding living soil, ask away any time 🙂🤙
 
I’ve been wanting to switch to living soil for a long time.
There’s a recipe called Coots that is sold in different kits at build a soil that seems to be popular.

I have a few bales of Sunshine #4 that might work for the peat moss and perlite ingredients of the recipe.
 
legacy.cannabis.nz said:
Hi there,

Im quite late to this thread, but living soil is a subject I really love, and can offer a world of advice on.
Making your base mix does not have to be complicated. Your base sounds really rich to me, and with the additions of chicken manure and guano, your mix will definitely run hot, and require around 2 to 3 weeks of cooking to calm down.

A good base mix is organic compost 50 50 fungi/bacteria dominated and or worm castings , peat moss (great ph buffer), and pumice.
50% compost/worm castings
25% peatmoss
25% pumice

Living soils have gone very far in recent years, with goals of GMP grade medical.. living soil scientists have been raising the bar.
This being said, one thing they are steering clear of - is animal manures. They are great, but are at risk of many unwanted contaminants, so generally those high grade living soil grows use anything but. Worm castings being the closest to manure they will use.

The biggest key to "Living Soils" is to actually keep them alive/living! So beneficial microbes, fungis, bacterias, bugs, worms etc can thrive and in turn create a soil food web between them and the plants living within.

"Teaming with Microbes" by Jeff Lowenfels is a brilliant book describing this process.

Making your composts a 50 50 fungi and bacterially dominated compost is a another big key.. this is done by equal ratios of both green and brown waste.

Mulching both green and brown is also very important.. maintaining fungi and bacteria populations.

Forget anything you have learned about dry back... Living soil needs a maintained moisture content.. your plants will thrive in this believe it or not. A digi moisture meter is a key tool, and maintaining 80 to 120mbars is optimum.

Your soil should run itself from here, and keep your plants nice n healthy. Without anything else needed
Additional bonus organic components, dry amendments etc can be applied straight to the top of the soil - I recommend doing this with additional compost and re mulching, Or, as nutrient water drenches.
There are also many great organic amendments now available... Anything with fulvics, and humics is worth buying. Pure amino acids are totally worth using in soil drenches right up untill week 6 of flower. Kelp foliage sprays will make life easy, and greatly encourage sugar exchange between your plants and microbes meaning super healthy plants. Just stop using once flowers are formed.
K Humates, Langbenite, and coconut water are great flowering additives.
You can quite comfortably go water only too.

This soil is sustainable, ie - reusable for many years. I do recommend soil tests/prescriptions and cover crops in between crops

Any other questions regarding living soil, ask away any time 🙂🤙
Click to expand...
The books teaming with nutrients and teaming with fungi are the real deal indeed.

I have used my soil for about 2 years (~8 rounds) in 60l pots. Have done 130 and 240 beds/pots and am now doing sog style 3.5l and 5.7l pots. I see no real difference other than a reduced watergift.

I just wanted to add that i have good results using living soil even in 3.5l pots. I dont see why it doesnt. I first also thought a big buffer is needed and probably is best long term indeed but not necessarily needed. I just add on new mulch/wormcastings/insect frass/dry nutes every round and its fine. Water this with molasses for a microbe boost and you get everything going.

Oh and the tension readings were really different (to me) when i used a big or small pot. My (30cm height) 240l bed is getting rewatered at 350 while my (45cm height) 60l pot could wait till 400 or even 500 and still plants looked happy (when roots already deep). Those pots didnt like going under 120, plants looked droopy.
Now in small plastic pots it can go from 30 to 100 in 2 days to 200 a half day later so i would be carefull with advising these relative numbers as straight facts. Soil mix (airation)and potsize influences are real.

Same for wormcastings. I generally read and hear that u dont need more than 25% of compost/organic matter in your mix. It doesnt add anything from there other than nutrients. It might have to do that i make my own wormcastings from Bokashi, dunno really, but when i used more, my plants get too dark for my liking.

To be fair, i miss real soil but maybe thats the dutchie in me that is used to it.

I always end up mixing ;
1/5 worm
1/5 coco
1/5 lava
2/5 pro mix plagron (nuteless soil)

Then i go crazy on mixing nutes and beneficial products;

Insect frass 50g
Biovin 10g
Lavameal 50g
Bentonite 50g
Basaltmeal 50g
Mearl 150g
Sea shell lime 150g
Zeolite 50g

Kieserite 50g
Antagon 50g
Cow manure 60g
Chicken manure 60g
Seabird guano 60g
Batguano 60g
Bonemeal 60g
Vinasse kali 50g
Vivi kali 50g
Bloodmeal 60g
Hornmeal 50g
Seaweed meal 60g

I put these ingredients in a container, mix it 50/50 with wormcastings and give it water with molasses. Keep it moist but also airated to compost these ingredients to a easy to use fertalizer. When it dries out youll see how the fungi has colonized the container just as it will do in your pot. Awesome to see how compact and full of crystals it gets.

After it doesnt smell anymore (cooking done) this is my top dressing always, in flower and veg, with big or small plants and sativas or indicas.

3.5l pots get 1 teaspoon a time and 5.7l pots 2.

Lets say this mix will make the plants 80% happy when 100 is perfect and every % above it is as bad as every % beneath it.
I fill in this 20% with liquid ferts like fishmix Bokashi or (when Bokashi dry in bloom) some bloom nutes. Its a lot easier to adjust the right dosage with liquids and this way you can grow many different plants in 1 setup. i did in 1 pot but thats why i switched to sog method again, i want them to dialed in better per plant.


Also have read different things on bacteria or fungal dominated soils. I think in teaming up with ... i read that the focus should be on bacteria instead of fungi because plants (indoors) mostly dont grow that big and long to come to the phase that they benefit from it. Theres a picture in that book that i still see in my mind.. about small plants becoming bushes and then trees. The bigger a plant, and especially trees, get, the more they benefit from fungi dominated stuff.
That being said, i dont believe you can really be busy with this stuff in a hobby setup. Just throw in mulch like you said: brown and green. But also small and big partikels will make a difference. Fungi will be dominating the big pieces.

One thing is for sure; there are many ways and its interesting as fk. while it can seem expensive, it really can be cheap over the long term when having the ingredients in bulk.
 
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This is honestly why I love the Mr. Nice forums- they are an amazing place to learn!

Thank you for your response @legacy.cannabis.nz . I can confirm, I have made several changes to my living soil mix since I started this thread. I am now using a 170lt fabric pot from livingroots. I have also started to let my soil "cook" for at least two weeks. I have used a proper cover crop this time round too, but definitely went overboard with how many seeds I used- will use far less next time! I have since removed the manure too.

I would like to ask some questions though and pick your brain! "Living soil needs a maintained moisture content.. your plants will thrive in this believe it or not. A digi moisture meter is a key tool, and maintaining 80 to 120mbars is optimum."- can you recommend a digi moisture meter?

Thanks for the recommendation of the book too, I will definitely check it out! If you can recommend any other books within this sphere I would be grateful.

With regard to the amino acids comment too, can you recommend something specific. I am based in Europe so the brands will likely be different but I still have no idea what to look for with regards fulvic/ humic acids / amino acids.

And of course, as always thank you for your comments too @ZenC , between all of the members here I have learnt so much in the last year!
 
lozac123 said:
This is honestly why I love the Mr. Nice forums- they are an amazing place to learn!

Thank you for your response @legacy.cannabis.nz . I can confirm, I have made several changes to my living soil mix since I started this thread. I am now using a 170lt fabric pot from livingroots. I have also started to let my soil "cook" for at least two weeks. I have used a proper cover crop this time round too, but definitely went overboard with how many seeds I used- will use far less next time! I have since removed the manure too.

I would like to ask some questions though and pick your brain! "Living soil needs a maintained moisture content.. your plants will thrive in this believe it or not. A digi moisture meter is a key tool, and maintaining 80 to 120mbars is optimum."- can you recommend a digi moisture meter?

Thanks for the recommendation of the book too, I will definitely check it out! If you can recommend any other books within this sphere I would be grateful.

With regard to the amino acids comment too, can you recommend something specific. I am based in Europe so the brands will likely be different but I still have no idea what to look for with regards fulvic/ humic acids / amino acids.

And of course, as always thank you for your comments too @ZenC , between all of the members here I have learnt so much in the last year!
Click to expand...
Hey Lozac

Can I recommend a digital meter.

Yes certainly. "Blumat", here is an NZ site with them: https://seaclifforganics.nz/products/blumat-moisturemeter
im sure a google search will reveal ones more local to you.

While I am on the subject... The Blumat watering systems are a game changer for living soils, HIGHLY recommended!! Automation without using any power, they are genius. And your soil having water on tap and perfect moisture content 24/7 will LOVE you for it.

As for help with sourcing the listed nutes:
"BioAg" (which i think will have shops in the UK selling their stuff) they make a really good product full of fulvics, humates, and other good trace elements, the product is called BioAg TM7.
As for pure aminos... I dont imagine they should be hard to find in any specialist gardening store stocking an organic range.
I am lucky enough to have a sustainable organics company just down the road from me... If you're really struggling, Im sure the bros wouldn't mind posting you some products, I could go see them about it.
https://seaclifforganics.nz/ is them, scrolling through their range and website will teach you heaps about what to source, and how to grow in living soils 🤙.

Extra books were covered in an earlier reply by another member. Teaming with Fungi, and Teaming with Nutrients... They're like bibles along with the microbe one.

ZenC shared some excellent replies... The only thing i dont agree with is his calls on pot sizes.. and dryback..
Dryback wont kill plants granted, but will begin to kill the microbes, fungi etc every time u allow it, which is your whole goal of living soil, its like taking a backwards step. Small pots will mean u have to water 3x a day to keep the right moisture content...
While plants might be happy and healthy growing in small pots with living soil and dry back, and even complete their cycle fine... Growing properly in controlled moisture conditions trumps small pots hands down. Thats just my 2c.
 
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legacy.cannabis.nz said:
Hey Lozac

Can I recommend a digital meter.

Yes certainly. "Blumat", here is an NZ site with them: https://seaclifforganics.nz/products/blumat-moisturemeter
im sure a google search will reveal ones more local to you.

While I am on the subject... The Blumat watering systems are a game changer for living soils, HIGHLY recommended!! Automation without using any power, they are genius. And your soil having water on tap and perfect moisture content 24/7 will LOVE you for it.

As for help with sourcing the listed nutes:
"BioAg" (which i think will have shops in the UK selling their stuff) they make a really good product full of fulvics, humates, and other good trace elements, the product is called BioAg TM7.
As for pure aminos... I dont imagine they should be hard to find in any specialist gardening store stocking an organic range.
I am lucky enough to have a sustainable organics company just down the road from me... If you're really struggling, Im sure the bros wouldn't mind posting you some products, I could go see them about it.
https://seaclifforganics.nz/ is them, scrolling through their range and website will teach you heaps about what to source, and how to grow in living soils 🤙.

Extra books were covered in an earlier reply by another member. Teaming with Fungi, and Teaming with Nutrients... They're like bibles along with the microbe one.

ZenC shared some excellent replies... The only thing i dont agree with is his calls on pot sizes.. and dryback..
Dryback wont kill plants granted, but will begin to kill the microbes, fungi etc every time u allow it, which is your whole goal of living soil, its like taking a backwards step. Small pots will mean u have to water 3x a day to keep the right moisture content...
While plants might be happy and healthy growing in small pots with living soil and dry back, and even complete their cycle fine... Growing properly in controlled moisture conditions trumps small pots hands down. Thats just my 2c.
Click to expand...
Blumat did change my watergift also. Its just so easy to adjust and to get experience with different amounts of water and how the plant reacts.

Another couple of great books are :
- cannabis grow bible ( 3rd edition ) by greg green
- marijuana botany by Robert conell Clark

Teaming with nutrients is also in a Dutch version; "bodem voedselweb"

I have alot of these books in e reader format, downloaded from a big fat drug database. If anyone is interested, i have no idea how to post it here but can probably send it through email for free.

Well i just want to ask you @legacy.cannabis.nz; have you ever tried using "living soil" (which in my eyes every soil kinda is, growing mineral isnt but not fit for soil) in small pots yourself?
I didnt use the word dryback so maybe you dont get the picture like i was painting it. Im not so good of a painter..
What i meant whas that a small pot need less water than a big pot. Very easy and logical, everyone can understand that i suppose. I dont let the pots dry out at all, youre right on that being a key to keep the soil thriving..
I kinda explained how and why i deal with smaller potsizes so i think you might have stuck on reading a lot of "experienced" people without having experienced it yourself. I do 1 to 1.3 g /w in my setup and that didnt change using small pots even tho i lately flower a week shorter than usual.
I got the "real" hypro Amnesia cut and thats the amount many people harvest. Ive tested my budds on thc and cbd content and the result was that i have 2% more thc while flowering 7,5weeks organically than the guy i got the clone from. He does it in 9 weeks...He does coco/mineral grows.. and this is only quantity.. dont get me started on quality difference in smell, taste and effect.

I water 1 time in 3 to 4 days. got 16 x 3.5l pots in a 60x60 and 16 x 5.7lnin 80x80 with heating mats. Those mats will push the water from bottom to the top of the pot. If you use an irrigation mat you can improve buffer qualities and give water to pots from top and bottom both. Have you ever thought on how even the moist going to be when only watered from one side?

Also when having many many "rules" in mind makes that you compromise between some. That means that not everything i do is precisely into the rules of another grower but made my decisions with the rules in mind.

Keeping the soil evenly moist has been a focuspoint for me too. Therefor you want a very well mixed soil, and amendments like bentonite that keep that soil moist.

Ah wait, i think u might react on my high tensio readings. As for that, when using a bigger pot, you might want to use that pot like a real garden. A real garden has water coming from the bottom also, when roots arrive there they can withstand very dry periods. In Dutch its called "groundwater", dunno in English.
With that in mind and in mind that plants like a little bit of dry back, you can aim for a balance between the bottom always being wet and the top being moist like you said. Even in at 400 the pot is still moist on top.. idk how but if you read the blumat tensio advice, youll see that they say different readings for different situations. A big pot has the potential of being used as a garden. A 3.5l pot doesnt. Therefor need adjustments but with every organic rule in mind you can make it work, if you want to..
 
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ZenC said:
Blumat did change my watergift also. Its just so easy to adjust and to get experience with different amounts of water and how the plant reacts.

Another couple of great books are :
- cannabis grow bible ( 3rd edition ) by greg green
- marijuana botany by Robert conell Clark

Teaming with nutrients is also in a Dutch version; "bodem voedselweb"

I have alot of these books in e reader format, downloaded from a big fat drug database. If anyone is interested, i have no idea how to post it here but can probably send it through email for free.

Well i just want to ask you @legacy.cannabis.nz; have you ever tried using "living soil" (which in my eyes every soil kinda is, growing mineral isnt but not fit for soil) in small pots yourself?
I didnt use the word dryback so maybe you dont get the picture like i was painting it. Im not so good of a painter..
What i meant whas that a small pot need less water than a big pot. Very easy and logical, everyone can understand that i suppose. I dont let the pots dry out at all, youre right on that being a key to keep the soil thriving..
I kinda explained how and why i deal with smaller potsizes so i think you might have stuck on reading a lot of "experienced" people without having experienced it yourself. I do 1 to 1.3 g /w in my setup and that didnt change using small pots even tho i lately flower a week shorter than usual.
I got the "real" hypro Amnesia cut and thats the amount many people harvest. Ive tested my budds on thc and cbd content and the result was that i have 2% more thc while flowering 7,5weeks organically than the guy i got the clone from. He does it in 9 weeks...He does coco/mineral grows.. and this is only quantity.. dont get me started on quality difference in smell, taste and effect.

I water 1 time in 3 to 4 days. got 16 x 3.5l pots in a 60x60 and 16 x 5.7lnin 80x80 with heating mats. Those mats will push the water from bottom to the top of the pot. If you use an irrigation mat you can improve buffer qualities and give water to pots from top and bottom both. Have you ever thought on how even the moist going to be when only watered from one side?

Also when having many many "rules" in mind makes that you compromise between some. That means that not everything i do is precisely into the rules of another grower but made my decisions with the rules in mind.

Keeping the soil evenly moist has been a focuspoint for me too. Therefor you want a very well mixed soil, and amendments like bentonite that keep that soil moist.

Ah wait, i think u might react on my high tensio readings. As for that, when using a bigger pot, you might want to use that pot like a real garden. A real garden has water coming from the bottom also, when roots arrive there they can withstand very dry periods. In Dutch its called "groundwater", dunno in English.
With that in mind and in mind that plants like a little bit of dry back, you can aim for a balance between the bottom always being wet and the top being moist like you said. Even in at 400 the pot is still moist on top.. idk how but if you read the blumat tensio advice, youll see that they say different readings for different situations. A big pot has the potential of being used as a garden. A 3.5l pot doesnt. Therefor need adjustments but with every organic rule in mind you can make it work, if you want to..
Click to expand...
How did you find the Hypro? I was in a club in Spain that was like a very local/ laid back one, and they had it there. I wasn't that impressed by it, it was a nice smoke, but they had crystal candy there that I preferred.

Thank you again to everyone responding. This will definitely be a valuable thread to anyone who is looking at growing in some living soil!

Can confirm will be buying a blumat system in the next few days, I've been debating for a while, along with the TM-7
 
Hi ZenC,
While i do like to read, ALOT, I also speak from experience too.
The thing between our lil debates on the finer details, is between the two of us, we are likely dealing with different variables. You use LED lights, and heat mats - in comparison i run old gas powered HPS and metal halide lights, and rather than supplementing heat... Im supplementing cool air with A/C, swamp coolers and foliage sprays.

I have kept clones in PB 3/4 tiny little bags of living soil, very happily for months, and before i got my giant garden bed (pictured below) i used to grow in 50L fabric pots.

IMG_20231011_214922.jpg
Along with the blumat carrots (one in the centre, and one on the side, i attach a "blusoak" hose for even watering.
In the peak of summer i still require hand watering once a day. Note these plants got a 12 week veg 😆👍 romulan was soo slow to veg.

You are not wrong, and neither am i, we just are dealing with different variables.

Maybe in hindsight, i could have been clearer too with my pot size call, and said depending on the climate you live in, or season... And lights and plant sizes, soil drainage and components etc etc 😆
Where I am, and how I have set up.. i seriously could not properly maintain 3.5L pot size.. theyd dry out sooo fast

Great yarns my friend, hope to chat much more
 
lozac123 said:
How did you find the Hypro? I was in a club in Spain that was like a very local/ laid back one, and they had it there. I wasn't that impressed by it, it was a nice smoke, but they had crystal candy there that I preferred.

Thank you again to everyone responding. This will definitely be a valuable thread to anyone who is looking at growing in some living soil!

Can confirm will be buying a blumat system in the next few days, I've been debating for a while, along with the TM-7
Click to expand...
Do you mean hydro smoke or hydro grow? Because i think if you have a very good hydro grower, the smoke shouldnt be very different from a organic one. I like biology and chemistry but im nowhere near a biologist or chemist. I often ask people if they want to be god or want to be as good as god. Meaning; i assume i cant be as good as him (while being atheïst) so i wont be god or nature itself. I want to learn from it and copy it as good as i can :)

Ive tried a HPS/Hydro grow but damn that was not my cup of tea... Im a creative thinking guy using gut feeling and intuition alongside the knowlwdge i gained. In hydro it gets to a point that i was only readin, reacting and stressing..
The chance to philosophy about nature and my grows birngs me more than quality gramms.
Also, one month im maintaining my wormbin and the other month i can do other stuff.. in hydro every day feels the same..

While a whole system can be really good, u can also just try out the tensiometer first. Or maybe u just meant that hihi 😁

Ps; i now see i can post screenshots but not photos from my phone camera. If there is any book you like, contact me!
 

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legacy.cannabis.nz said:
Hi ZenC,
While i do like to read, ALOT, I also speak from experience too.
The thing between our lil debates on the finer details, is between the two of us, we are likely dealing with different variables. You use LED lights, and heat mats - in comparison i run old gas powered HPS and metal halide lights, and rather than supplementing heat... Im supplementing cool air with A/C, swamp coolers and foliage sprays.

I have kept clones in PB 3/4 tiny little bags of living soil, very happily for months, and before i got my giant garden bed (pictured below) i used to grow in 50L fabric pots.

View attachment 83191
Along with the blumat carrots (one in the centre, and one on the side, i attach a "blusoak" hose for even watering.
In the peak of summer i still require hand watering once a day. Note these plants got a 12 week veg 😆👍 romulan was soo slow to veg.

You are not wrong, and neither am i, we just are dealing with different variables.

Maybe in hindsight, i could have been clearer too with my pot size call, and said depending on the climate you live in, or season... And lights and plant sizes, soil drainage and components etc etc 😆
Where I am, and how I have set up.. i seriously could not properly maintain 3.5L pot size.. theyd dry out sooo fast

Great yarns my friend, hope to chat much more
Click to expand...
Haha you are totally right man. All comes down to variables. But real recognizes real and sorry if i came a cross as a know it all, i definitely do not.
12 weeks haha damn thats nothing i can relate to! I tend to do as fast as possible taking a little risk on plant numbers 😳.

Haha i get why you just stated the main themes. It gets very time and energy consuming giving a complete vision and some people only get scared of the information rather than enthusiastic and interested.

I will check your grows for sure in the following days!

Peace
 
ZenC said:
Do you mean hydro smoke or hydro grow? Because i think if you have a very good hydro grower, the smoke shouldnt be very different from a organic one. I like biology and chemistry but im nowhere near a biologist or chemist. I often ask people if they want to be god or want to be as good as god. Meaning; i assume i cant be as good as him (while being atheïst) so i wont be god or nature itself. I want to learn from it and copy it as good as i can :)

Ive tried a HPS/Hydro grow but damn that was not my cup of tea... Im a creative thinking guy using gut feeling and intuition alongside the knowlwdge i gained. In hydro it gets to a point that i was only readin, reacting and stressing..
The chance to philosophy about nature and my grows birngs me more than quality gramms.
Also, one month im maintaining my wormbin and the other month i can do other stuff.. in hydro every day feels the same..

While a whole system can be really good, u can also just try out the tensiometer first. Or maybe u just meant that hihi 😁

Ps; i now see i can post screenshots but not photos from my phone camera. If there is any book you like, contact me!
Click to expand...
So when you mentioned Hypro I thought you meant the strain? I think it's a pheno of amnesia haze, but it was down as Amnesia Hy-pro in the cafe
 
Oh my god.. i read hydro instead of hypro.. wake and bake haha jeez 😂

You are right man. I mean the elite cutting going as Amnesia, haze or Amnesia haze in almost every coffeeshop. Not all of them are hypro tho ;)

So what i think of it? I dont smoke it anymore, only sell it. In holland many people see "haze" as their go to weed because they can rely on its potency and every shop sells it so in another city u can still depend pon it, somewhat.

I get too paranoia from too much sativa while i love the creative buzz and focus from it. I think my own mind is quite chaotic and creative already so i shouldnt enhance it but temper it to condition myself.

The odor, hazey feeling in throat, stickyness, taste are unmatchable. Its a true f1 hybrid super clone which is alive for more than 25 years now i believe.

Many people argue about the genes, as always. - https://www.icmag.com/threads/amnesia-haze-hy-pro-cut-vs-somas-line.325961/
 
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How much living soil is needed if you are using 100 gallons per grow cycle?
Once the soil is used for a grow cycle is another cook cycle needed ?
 
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