Down Below

  • Thread starter Thread starter barletta
  • Start date Start date
Status
Not open for further replies.
Hi Barletta,

Beautiful pictures :) Do you still have plants in the great outdoors? If so, how are they reacting to the ice and the dropping temperatures? Purpling? Will they manage to survive under those conditions?

Peace and have a great day ;)
 
BeeDrizzle, I want some of what you are smoking, lol. It's mid Jan here ~40 degN. Similar weather as NYC, plants were out till ~mid October, and I' going to replant from June to July.
 
dude iv give you some gold for this thread

well done mate and keep it up

long live down below:):)
 
BeeDrizzle, I want some of what you are smoking, lol. It's mid Jan here ~40 degN. Similar weather as NYC, plants were out till ~mid October, and I' going to replant from June to July.

Sorry Barletta, i was too stoned on Moroccan bubble wile trying to salute you, lmao :D

You wouldn’t want what I’m smoking, your stuff is way better ;)
 
"For Sale: 1 well worn thread. Has pics and some amusing stories. Macros need some work. Spare avatar included. Inspection good till 2010. Would consider a trade for gold or HPS lighting. Seroius inquiries ONLY. Contact barletta @ mrnice.nl/forums"
:)

I'm smoking on G/Sk #1, and damn. Powerful stuff fer sure. It's like a strong indica AND sativa high. Not at all couchlock, but not at all 'with it' either. This is either do SOMETHING (preferably with headphones) intense after smoking (ski, bicycle, basketball, run - think, draw, write...) OR kick back, smile and drool on yourself weed. Very sticky, very sweet. If I didn't have 4 or 5 'keeper' 10+ weekers, I'd be kicking myself for not keeping a clone. I have too much going on anyway, and she contributed ~50seeds to the ~125seed g/sk f2 batch. G/sk #2 is similar, but a lil more 'stone' leaning, and less powerful, sticky, smelly etc... Both are the kinds of plants that I expect at this point from MrN. Big plants with nice strong highs.
:)
 
Unmerciful, Barletta never forgives :D

I don’t know the G13 x Sk, but I do know the G13 has a very powerful high. Five or six years ago I did G13 x HP from Sensi, and found 3 plants matching Airborn G13 clone, short and slightly branchy. Two males and one female. The female was something truly special, at first I couldn’t even finish a joint. Many beans were made and friends became very happy. It was to be outcrossed with a selected Neville’s Haze male, but the project was never completed. What a shame :(
 
LOL, you snuck in under my post :) All is well my child...

Man, I smoked a good bit of MWD (mangowidow x (og kush x g13/hz)) before, and whhoohhoo - where am I? The weed smokes JUST like I would imagine a cross between the female ogk x g/hz and the MW would. Less smell than I would expect, but like a weed punch in the face. I'll deffo be running more of these out. :)

I'll get some pix up 2moro.
 
Well here is what happens when:
1. You have a humid room
2. Your room gets cold
3. You are lazy, and let things ...go...

Here are the SuperLolo's, ~3wks. They have some powdery mildew that I was just hoping would go away, or at least not really affect the plants... I couldn't see that they were that bad until I took the pictures. The HID's kind of wash it out. They are yellow down low from the PM, and I haven't fes them any N. They have prolly used what is in the pots. Once they dry, I'll feed em.
S7303762.JPG


S7303763.JPG


S7303764.JPG


Broke out the neem
S7303765.JPG


If it continues to spread, I'll address the room. It's not so humid that I've ever had budrot (1 plant before I had the fans), so I'm assuming it's the cold. I REALLY don't want to have to heat down below, and temps should start to rise on their own a lil in a few wks...
 
hello b,
hope you can nip that in the bud m8 "pardon the pun".

they only thing I can sugest is actually lowering your day time temp's by uping your extraction, more air movement and changeing?.

Then when lights go off the difference wont be that great, to condensate as much?.

hope that makes sence?.


#
 
I'm thinking that the foliar kick I was on last month may have left deposits where the fungus took hold. I was spraying just before lights off. Now if I'm gonna foliar (in the winter), I'll remove the plants and do it during the day.
 
hello m8,

im thinking i should shut the feck up. lol:p


forgot! MASTER GARDENER! doh!.:o


#

ps: i never FF in FL.lol
 
Stop with the master gardener. I just posted some shitty lookin, sick plants, gave up on the Shit re-veg today, and my clones look like shit :) I'm a master pothead.
 
barletta, your herb garden looks soooo healthy, lol. 25 pakalolo's...
S7303766.JPG


Bear with me, I'm trying to set up a hobo photo studio (winkage).

Got Iffy?
S7303767.JPG


S7303770.JPG


S7303772.JPG
 
Wackro's
S7303768.JPG


S7303769.JPG

:D

I'm a good grower and picture snapper, but I stumbled first on MrN seed co, then on this SSH cut... :eek:
 
Hi Barletta,

Regarding PM, i’ve read in the old Overgrow that you can prevent it using a foliar solution of milk and water. If I do remember correctly it’s one part milk to nine parts of water. Sorry if I can’t be absolutely sure but it was a long time ago and I never had PM problems to try it. Anyway, since it’s milk, you shouldn’t have problems using it in flower.

Your SSH nug looks so tasty. Gimme some, I saw it first :D
 
Ouch, powdery mildew. Don't take it lightly, fight it hard and stop it before it takes over your room.

I've heard neem can work, but it stinks like hell and my understanding is that it's not as effective as other proven solutions. Check out GreenCure (potassium bicarbonate with wetting agent mixed in), it's an extremely effective and inexpensive solution for PM. You can pretty much forget everything else (except maybe DM Zone + Penetrator if the GC doesn't work out for some reason). It's easy as hell to use, just dump some measured scoops into plain tap water, shake, and spray. I think enough GC to make something like 50+ gallons of spray will run you $15 - $25 (depends on whether you need to have it shipped or pick up locally.)

No disrespect to anyone or anything, but forget the milk & water, baking soda & water/oil, etc. If you do your research you will find that those solutions are iffy at best and have a wide range of reported effectiveness, from "didn't work at all", to "made it worse", to "seemed to help".

What you need to understand is that PM is systemic, and that even though you may not see fruiting bodies on the surface of the leaves, it is very possible that most/all of the plants are still infected inside... and the spore patches will resurface as soon as conditions are right again, especially during the late stages of the plant's life when it is especially weak and dying. If you give it a chance to take hold, it could be a serious problem. (Ever seen Neptune's threads on IC? That's what can happen if you let PM get bad, it can virtually permanently ruin your room.)

You know this already, but keep the humidity low and good airflow... sometimes in some environments even that's not enough. HEPA filtration on the intake can help tremendously as well if you're in an area where high spore counts are nearly unavoidable.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, ct. Honestly, I could see myself just using the neem, and the room slowly going downhill until by the time the temps come up some, the PM is a PROBLEM. It is early, as these plants show some (Superlolo), and the SuperSpices showed a lil later in flower. I'ma try the Greencure, as I trust your advice, and I've seen it used by other guys with their shit together.

I read a few of neptune's posts when I first joined, and that dude has a shitty attitude,IMO. I hope he's not your boy, if he is, tell him to worry about his own sheeat... Never said anything to me, but I saw him JUMP on some noobs.

I do have to order it, but no problem, as it's time to make one anyway. Seems like ~3/4mo I have to order. Castings, Plantsuccess, Crabshell, coco, and the genhydro RE/DB. I'll prolly need some new spray bottles, considering I just neem'd up the last working one I had... No shops here.

I would work on the environment, but I vent the whole house basically through the room, and my cost for heat is up $230 this month. No way can I afford to heat the room and have it blow out the window. If I vent just to 'outside' the room, I'll start running into humidity problems. I have a dehumidifier, but running in the room won't give any time to really draw the moisture out of the air (400+cfm being exhausted). The space outside of the room (where I would be venting to, AND drawing from) is large enough that I'd have to run the dehumidifier almost 24/7. I'm strategically upping the heat in the house, and I'm gonna go to the Depot to get a fan controller to run @ night. I have to re-do the room, and I'm sort of glad that I got an issue, cause it shows where the 'limits' are to my room's weakness (cold). I'm not trying to have a $600 elec bill to run ~1500w...

Anywho, I saw this on yahoo, and DAMN. Please forget the hook and the heavy uptown nyc accent. This is the 18 y/o daughter of slain Pakistani Prime Minister Benazir Bhutto. Bhutto and her family have been powerful forces for good in Pakistan for a long time. Many of her family members have been assassinated, and Mrs. Bhutto was in exile, then returned, then assassinated. She was shot December 2007.

I'm working on finding the lyrics, and if I can't find em by the end of the day, I'll just write em down and post em here. Knowing a lil about the Bhutto assassination (and events leading up to it), this song almost made me cry. Cry, tough guy, cry.:cool:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RxgiLARd5I&eurl
 
I just neem'd up a few more plants (1 looked affected - ssh f2 ~6/7wks in), and ooooh-ooh that smell. Like friggin warm cereal re-heated a wk later with some spoiled olive oil drizzled on top. But the smell molesting a haze plant is something I can get down with :D

I started looking around for 'potassium bicarbonate':
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=potassium bicarbonate&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wf

I'm going to hit a few local grocery/drug stores, cause if I can get it for ~5bux today/2moro, that beats 20 bux in a wk. :) I have 'coco wet' which I haven't opened, and I usually use ivory dish soap in stupid small amounts to mix the neem. Seemed like a few 'gardener' websites recommended making it up yourself, but they also talked about milk and oil n stuff. I'll lets y'all know.
 
Nuggets. Clockwise from the top left - Mango/Widow x g13/hz, Shit, G/Sk #2, G/Sk #1
S7303774.JPG


MangoWidow x Dude (the rest are in their threads in the strainbase)
S7303777.JPG



OK, did some research, and found a consice, easy to read article that cites multiple sources.
http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/bakingsoda.html
Use of Baking Soda as a Fungicide
By George Kuepper, Raeven Thomas,
and Richard Earles
NCAT Agriculture Specialists
© NCAT November 2001
ATTRA Publication #IP130/102
The printable PDF version of the entire document is available at:
http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/PDF/bakingsoda.pdf
4 pages — 367 kb

The use of baking soda as a fungicide is not a new idea. In Alfred C. Hottes' A Little Book of Climbing Plants, published in 1933 by the A.T. De La Mare Co. of New York, mention is made of using one ounce of baking soda per gallon of water to control powdery mildew (PM) on climbing roses. The author credits the idea to a Russian plant pathologist, A. de Yaczenski.(1)

In the August, 1985 issue of Organic Gardening magazine, a short article by Warren Shultz entitled "Recipe for Resistance" reports that researchers in Japan obtained effective control of PM on cucumbers, eggplants, and strawberries. They suggested weekly sprays of ¼ ounce baking soda per gallon of water.(2)

An article in the June, 1990 issue of Greenhouse Manager magazine summarizes the results of three years of testing baking soda as a fungicide for roses. Cornell University researcher Dr. R. Kenneth Horst observed suppression of PM and blackspot—both major problems for New York rose growers. Roses were sprayed every 3 to 4 days with a water solution of baking soda and insecticidal soap. The latter was included for its surfactant qualities. (Surfactants are chemical agents that alter the surface properties of a liquid.) The soap improved the effectiveness of the bicarbonate by making it stick to, and spread evenly over, the leaf surface. Further experimentation proved that the insecticidal soap itself was not responsible for suppressing the diseases. While no specific concentration of baking soda is indicated as being most effective in PM suppression, the article states that a 0.5% solution was most effective in preventing blackspot.(3)

Some of the work at Cornell has focused on controlling fungal diseases on cucurbits.(4) A single spray application (to runoff) of 0.5% (wt./vol. of water) baking soda, plus 0.5% (vol./vol. of water) SunSpray UFP® horticultural oil almost completely inhibited PM on heavily infected pumpkin foliage. Baking soda without spray oil was ineffective, and a 2% (wt./vol. of water) solution of baking soda damaged the leaves. Baking soda/oil sprays also provided good control of urocladium leaf spot in cucumber, alternaria leaf blight in muskmelon, and gummy stem blight in muskmelon.(5) Other diseases against which baking soda may prove effective include anthracnose in cucurbits (6); rust, dollar spot, and pythium blight in turf; late blight in potato; rust in wheat; and diseases affecting peanuts, banana, and alfalfa.(7)

Researchers in Israel reported the successful use of baking soda and SunSpray oil in controlling PM on euonymus.(8) In this research a 2% baking soda and 1% oil solution proved most effective.(9)

On-farm observations on melon acreage in Virginia resulted in one farm operation switching from synthetic fungicides to a baking soda/oil spray. These growers incorporated a liquid fertilizer into the mix.(10)

Research in Germany evaluated baking soda as a control for PM on `Bacchus' grapes. Three spray applications were made, beginning when symptoms first appeared. Good control was achieved with no loss of grape quality. The optimum concentration was a 1% solution.(11)

An article in the February, 1996 issue of GrowerTalks magazine follows up on the continuing research at Cornell. Testing with a variety of bicarbonates revealed that selecting the correct bicarbonate for a particular disease is important. Dr. Horst's research team found that ammonium bicarbonate had the strongest effect on some diseases, while potassium and sodium bicarbonates worked best against others. Potassium bicarbonate provided the best control of PM. "Sodium bicarbonate is okay, but it's not as good," Horst is quoted as saying. "And ammonium bicarbonate doesn't do the job on powdery mildew." He points out that while conventional chemical controls for PM are preventatives only, bicarbonates can eliminate the disease after it has already appeared on certain crops—he mentions roses and an unspecified ornamental—provided the infection is not severe. The only plant damage associated with bicarbonates applied in the trials was foliar burning when application rates exceeded recommended concentrations. Testing established that sodium bicarbonate does not increase the levels of sodium in plant tissues, soil, or runoff water. While their precise mode of action against fungi is not understood, Horst states that bicarbonates seem to damage the cell wall membrane in PM spores. He also believes pH to be a factor in bicarbonate effectiveness. In any case, bicarbonates are contact fungicides, and kill PM within minutes.(7)

The Federal EPA ruled (as of December, 1996) that sodium and potassium bicarbonates are exempt from residue tolerances.(12) This action served to facilitate the development and release of commercial bicarbonate products for horticultural use. It also lent weight to the belief that these materials are largely innocuous from a food safety perspective.

Connecticut researchers evaluated the effects of a spray solution containing 1% each of baking soda and horticultural oil on PM infection in zucchini, pumpkin, and cantaloupe. Four applications were made and disease suppression was definitely observed, accompanied by reduced insect pest damage. These researchers maintain that the treatment is preventative—not curative; that it is only necessary in years where early outbreaks may threaten yields; and that spraying should accompany proper nutrition and water management.(13)

In 1998, Church & Dwight Co. (14)—the manufacturer of Arm & Hammer™ baking soda—received EPA registration for Armicarb 100®, a potassium bicarbonate formulation, for use against PM, downy mildew, botrytis, and alternaria leaf-spot.(15) This product is the direct result of Dr. Horst's research at Cornell, which was funded by Church & Dwight. Armicarb 100 is now available from Helena Chemical Company.(16) A similar product is sold under the name FirstStep® by the W.A. Cleary Chemical Co.(17)

The EPA and the California Department of Environmental Protection have provided registration to Monterey Chemical Co. (18) for a product called Kaligreen®. A potassium bicarbonate fungicide for PM control, it is cleared for use on grapes, cucumbers, tobacco, roses, strawberries, and a wide range of other crops.(19, 20, 21) Directions for use include the addition of a sticker-spreader surfactant and a caution against use in acidic spray mixes. Since the product contains 30% potassium it is also touted for its fertilizer value.(22) One source of Kaligreen® is Peaceful Valley Farm Supply.(23)

Yet another potassium bicarbonate product, Remedy®, by Bonide™ (24), is now available from Gardener's Supply Co.(25) This formulation, which includes a surfactant oil, is labeled for use on ornamental, nut, and fruit trees, shrubs, and many vegetable plants. Said to control PM, black spot, leaf spot, anthracnose, phoma, phytophthora, scab, botrytis, and many other diseases, Remedy is particularly targeted toward rose growers.(26)

Various carbonates and bicarbonates have been proven effective against gray mold, the number one post-harvest disease of grapes. Researchers found that carbonates were more effective than bicarbonates at reducing gray mold (Botrytis cinerea) spore germination, and that sodium and ammonium bicarbonates were better than potassium bicarbonate.(27)

While industry was in the process of developing bicarbonate products for commercial and home horticulture, a number of recommendations for using kitchen-grade baking soda surfaced in print. These include:

* J. Howard Garrett—a well-known horticultural columnist and radio personality in the Dallas, Texas, area—recommends baking soda sprays at a concentration of 4 teaspoons per gallon of water for control of PM, blackspot, brown patch, and other fungal diseases. He also suggests that a light soil spray of baking soda solution can suppress fungus gnat problems, while cautioning that overuse should be avoided because of possible negative effects (sodium accumulation and alkaline pH) on the soil.(28)
* The authors of an organic pest control handbook suggest the same concentration mixture as Garrett, but advise the addition of an equal quantity of liquid dish soap or insecticidal soap as a surfactant.(29)
* The P. Allen Smith Gardens website advises mixing 1 heaping tablespoon of baking soda, 1 tablespoon of dormant oil, and ½ teaspoon of insecticidal or dish soap in one gallon of water as a PM spray. Stating that plants should be well hydrated prior to spraying, this source recommends irrigating a couple days in advance.(30)

It looks like the potassium bicarbonate solutions were most effective, with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) solutions being effective preventatives. In some cases, the baking soda did work. The article also mentions "Serenade". I did some research, and it works by unleashing a 'fungus eating bacteria', and seems to be very effective (on the rose growing boards).

EDIT - Here is a link to the 'serenede' product, and I think I've seen it locally.
http://www.planetnatural.com/site/serenade-disease-control.html
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top