Flush or no flushing,if you’ve tried both?observations or conclusions.

Indi

Active member
Has anyone tried both flush for 7-10 days and not flushing and noticed any significant difference?
I usually feed constant all the way until last few weeks then reduce N to at least half and keep Pk as a constant.
Then 7-10 days of water with flushing agent or Epsom salts 1g per gallon every other watering.
No complaints but I’ve not tried no flushing and I have read others say if you cure good it makes no difference.
I’m not trying to start a debate or prove anything just what you’ve experienced by trying both.
 
I have a feeling you're poking the bees nest with this one :)

Honestly and directly:
I have tried both and have seen no benefit to flushing IF there were no problems during the grow and everything went well.
IF problems occurred during grow there is a ton of things more important than worrying about flushing but if it was a over nute issue, do flush, straight RO water for at least a week (assuming hydro of whatever sort).
Flushing agents do one thing, flush your money down the drain, literally, you don't need them. An overdose of Mg (epsom salts) is not something I would willingly subject any plant to.
Straight RO (reverse osmosis) water, nothing else.
In soil:
Never flush, it's not needed, ever, unless you completely blew the grow as in FUBAR'd it.
 
Thanks for posting.
My intention isn’t to stir up a nest.
I go by observation now and if I haven’t tried something my opinion doesn’t hold any truth.
If girls are happy they will do what nature intended is my two cents and seems to be working.

The girls look great and it’s getting close so Im going to try chopping when they look great tric are at choice and see if anyone can tell a difference blindly.
 
I do generally "flush" the plant at the end in active hydro and hempys, but if it finishes quicker than Iexpect and doesn't get a flush it doesn't seem to matter. In hydro and hempys from my observations, NOT science, I think that the best smells during the grow tend to happen when plants are near the end and are getting either RO, or much-reduced ppms. I know some say the differences become pronounced with a cure but I NEVER have weed long enough for a proper cure these days.

My guru Mel Frank thinks it's a total crock.

Whatever, I've never seen cutting feed reduce quality, but it MIGHT reduce quantity. I don't THINK so unless it's an extremely long flush.
 
fertilizers are carcinogenic, that's why it is necessary to rinse and the grass is better rinsed because there is no more nitrogen which alters the taste
 
fertilizers are carcinogenic, that's why it is necessary to rinse and the grass is better rinsed because there is no more nitrogen which alters the taste
The plant uses what it needs and expels the rest . And in the "test" the plant with no flush was preferred in the taste test . Even flushed weed once green still contains chlorophyll. As someone mentioned when he flushes in hydro the ppms of the solution raises in the last weeks of life eventhough the plant still drinks water .
 
Cutting feed yes. Eliminating it, no. Last 2 weeks it probably needs 40% Less strength of what I normally give them when they are eating the most.
 
Cutting feed yes. Eliminating it, no. Last 2 weeks it probably needs 40% Less strength of what I normally give them when they are eating the most.

it's false the plant need more nutriment around the 4th week of bloom not at the end (that depend of the strain) after the strench

it's for that you have pk1314 booster product
 
it's false the plant need more nutriment around the 4th week of bloom not at the end (that depend of the strain) after the strench

it's for that you have pk1314 booster product

My base feeding is 15.5-0-0
4-20-39

Making my base feed
19.5-20-39.. Weed likes 2x the amount of K vs Nitrogen. Some strains will also like some added Iron. But not as a rule.
Epsom Salts

PPM is increased from Seedling/Clone up until last 2 weeks of flowering.

In Weeks 2.5-4 after Flip, they are also fed 0-52-34 along with the ever increasing PPM from the Base formula 19.5-20-39, AND Epsom Salts. Epsom Salts is also increasing along with base formula.

This has them getting fed a 19.5-72-73 + Epsom Salts.

Then in weeks 5-6 they get a boost in Epsom Salts. Which also contains Sulfur.

In weeks 7-8, the feed is reduced by 40%-60%. Then chopped.

I got my information by a company that has been making Plant Specific Fertilizers since the 70s, and Greenhouses, and Fertilizer in general since 1965. Ive been growing since 1972. 1977-78 with HID.

They used Tissue Analysis to determine the rate, and use of nutrients in weed. They also do Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Blueberries, and hundreds of different formulas, and generalized formulas, along with individual chemicals. They also do organic, and also specialize in supplying predator insects for gardens.
 
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Has anyone tried both flush for 7-10 days and not flushing and noticed any significant difference?
I usually feed constant all the way until last few weeks then reduce N to at least half and keep Pk as a constant.
Then 7-10 days of water with flushing agent or Epsom salts 1g per gallon every other watering.
No complaints but I’ve not tried no flushing and I have read others say if you cure good it makes no difference.
I’m not trying to start a debate or prove anything just what you’ve experienced by trying both.


Hey man, hope you are well.

With respect, I think on off watering for a week, at least, is detrimental.

Canna does not enjoy wild variation in EC.
Nor is a flush that long necessary.

I find that the plant does not really require that much macro nutrition so late in her cycle

Gardening fully organically I've found that a two day cycle of water alone is enough.
It doesn't take more than 48 hours for a plant to utilise her serum nutrient ( can your hydro plants thrive with no nutrient/pure water for 7+days? )

I use expanded clay/coco 60/40 and one thing I enjoy about run to waste is the ability to change nutrition instantly.

Any mineral imbalance issue can be addressed the next irrigatiom.
And the plants respond quickly.

I think the need to flush is obvious only in poorly grown weed.
I mean, if someone is growing a plant, and pushing it full of nutes and finds a mould or security issue that requires them to harvest unplanned, you might end up with weed full of crap, and taste will definitely suffer
Plants don't really need full strength phosphate in the last week, nor much nitrogen ever.

No one who pulls well grown weed as planned would be feeding it for growth the day before harvest

Cheers
 
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fertilizers are carcinogenic, that's why it is necessary to rinse and the grass is better rinsed because there is no more nitrogen which alters the taste
Even the bio fertilizer like the canna bio line? I am talking for soil

Has anybody mentioned what medium they are growing In? Or what a “flush” is?
I did not understand is it needed a flush for soil? And for flush I mean giving the plants just water in the last 10-14 days of flowering.
 
Even the bio fertilizer like the canna bio line? I am talking for soil


I did not understand is it needed a flush for soil? And for flush I mean giving the plants just water in the last 10-14 days of flowering.

Hi.
It's a question of technique.
If you are using soil and still applying regular nutrition in irrigation, you probably want to taper it.
Too much nutrition late in cycle no t only could effect taste, but also potency.
If you are forcing it with N, I don't think the THC or terpenes can max out
If your smoke is sizzling and popping and the ash is really dark, then you are probably feeding it too late into the cycle.
With some organic methods, ROLS for example, you are not always feeding it much more than water, with some grows using only occasional teas ( alfalpha tea etc )
In hydroponics, the nutrition is delivered in a chelate form, and in theory should be available to the plant fully.
If you are using something like guano in soil, then it has to be solubalised by bacteria first. It has to be broken down to a coloidall solution to become available, which takes time.

The easiest thing for you to do would be to run multiple buckets of the same weed, and taper them individually.
Then you will be able to work out, with your system/techniques, what is the required amount of time for your plants to process the nutrition available to then without being detrimental to the finished product.
 
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Hi.
It's a question of technique.
If you are using soil and still applying regular nutrition in irrigation, you probably want to taper it.
Too much nutrition late in cycle no t only could effect taste, but also potency.
If you are forcing it with N, I don't think the THC or terpenes can max out
If your smoke is sizzling and popping and the ash is really dark, then you are probably feeding it too late into the cycle.
With some organic methods, ROLS for example, you are not always feeding it much more than water, with some grows using only occasional teas ( alfalpha tea etc )
In hydroponics, the nutrition is delivered in a chelate form, and in theory should be available to the plant fully.
If you are using something like guano in soil, then it has to be solubalised by bacteria first. It has to be broken down to a coloidall solution to become available, which takes time.

The easiest thing for you to do would be to run multiple buckets of the same weed, and taper them individually.
Then you will be able to work out, with your system/techniques, what is the required amount of time for your plants to process the nutrition available to then without being detrimental to the finished product.

i totaly agree with that

i use guano in my soil + liquid fertilizers
 
The plant uses what it needs and expels the rest . And in the "test" the plant with no flush was preferred in the taste test . Even flushed weed once green still contains chlorophyll. As someone mentioned when he flushes in hydro the ppms of the solution raises in the last weeks of life eventhough the plant still drinks water .
How do you suggest the plant "expels the rest"

Three ways to control the way a plant acts.
One is light spectra/intensity/timing.
Training or cutting to manipulate auxin.
The other is root-zone EC.

The plant will always draw in water first, followed by nutrition.
If your EC varies, it effects the plant.
If too low, the plant will draw in too much water, and become water logged.
Too high EC, and the plant will draw in too much nutrition and leaf tip burn.
Extremely high EC will desicste the plant by reverse osmosis ( the plant burns because it's nutrient/water solution is drawn out into the soil/media )
It can adjust the amount of sugars in its roots, to adjust the amount it draws ( by osmosis ) but only in increment of less than 100ec per day

The net elemental profile is up to uou, though.
If your plant needs more potassium say, but you are over feeding nitrogen, it will just draw in too much nitrogen.
The plant doesn't take up just what it needs in the ratio it requires, osmosis just draws in the net elemental profile you supply it.

That is why some gardeners have a better skill, because they are able to observe and tweak the liquor to what a plant requires, and keep their plants fed to her requirements, without producing imbalance/lockouts.
Or some plants are easier growing, because they are not so susceptible to malnutrition.

Can you suggest by what method does the plant expel unneeded nutrition?
Do you think it shits it back out?

Chlorophyll is very much like blood in animals.
It is produced by the plant itself.
It is not excess nutrition in solution in the plant.
 
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