Are there any bubble hash makers?Is there any test for too wet or when it’s dry?

To air dry ice water hash:

  1. Take the wet bubble hash and gently press it over a 15μm or 25μm screen to remove any excess water.
  2. Freeze the wet hash patties for 24 hours.
  3. Grind the frozen bubble hash using a stainless-steel sieve to break it up into tiny pieces.
  4. Spread out the tiny pieces in a thin layer on food-grade parchment paper placed on top of a piece of cardboard (like a pizza box). Untreated corrugated cardboard absorbs moisture, helping the wet hash to dry.
  5. Place the board in a controlled environment (as described above) and leave it there for 2-10 days, or until the hash is dried to your satisfaction. What you’re going for is a dry, sand-like texture that’s sticky but not damp when you squeeze it between your fingers.
  6. Store the dried bubble hash in airtight containers in the freezer or press the bubble hash into rosin.
In addition to point 1 press the hash on the screen but have a paper towel under it to help wick up water.
 
Thanks Uncle Jack,



I pretty much did the exact same steps.
It’s my first time sifting out the hash to dry.
Here’s a few pictures of the process.It’s been 72 hours drying since it was sifted out of the freezer. I think it’s dry.
I have it jarred up now.
I put a few crumbs between sheets of parchment and they melted together from the heat and pressure from my finger tips.



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The ball is hard like a chocolate,shiny but not sticky on the surface.
It seems to have flattened out even more as time has passed.My second temple ball was much softer but it didn’t flatten out at all.
Turkey bag cellophane is very stiff ,hard to wrap around the temple ball and still be able to seal.A bit of scotch tape keeps the cellophane from unraveling and opening up.
It’s going in a sealed jar so it should be good for long term storage.


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Looking great @CBDcure I've found each run seems to get better as you get used to handling the type of starting material (dry, semi-dry, fresh frozen), knowing how long to run the machine for each to get that nice clean first wash for smoking hash.

Because I'm lazy, I use a 220 wash bag in the machine to hold the load (with some ice in the bag to help agitation) - it makes cleaning up a lot faster. Once the machine cycle is finished I let it sit to allow the trichomes to fall to the bottom of the washer, and gently agitate the bag a couple of times by hand to release the remaining trichomes. Doing this has increased the quantity & quality of my returns. The other machine modification I've seen that you might be interested in, is replacing the corrugated drain hose with regular straight hose to prevent trichomes getting stuck in the corrugation.

Second what @Uncle Jack says about the drying process.

*top tip*
I pin my parchment (shiny side up!) to the inside of the pizza box - prevents losing hash to accidental knocks or paper curling (I've opened a box before and the paper had curled and the damp hash powder bonded to the cardboard 😒
 
As side note, I had a really interesting experience with some older dry sift. About 3 years ago I made some Nevil's Haze Mango dry sift, it was my first try at it. The reason I tried dry sifting is because I had some bubble hash become moldy on me . So, ever since I started dry sifting, I haven't had any problems with mold. But the dry sift I was making didn't stick together well. If I put it in the oven (in a covered, shallow mason jar) I would be able to make it stick together by rolling it after the oven. So that would work, making it all into a small slab, but the end product would be rock hard. If one wanted to work with it for blades or a happle, then you'd have to cut off an appropriate piece and work it between my fingers. Otherwise one would heat the chunk of hash and crumble it into some weed or (heaven forbid) tobacco in a reefer or pipe.

Back to the NHM dry sift, I left it in my bedroom closet (1oz) and would rarely dip into it, by working the dry sift between my fingers as mentioned earlier. The neat thing is that all of a sudden, about 2 years later, I noticed the hard to work with stuff has turned into a malleable substance, like traditional hash. One thing I'm not sure about as far as important factors in this is room temperature. It was in my bedroom closet as opposed to the wine cellar, where I keep the rest of my weed. That may have a different effect, I don't know yet

So, from my experience, dry sift will produce hash that has perfect moisture content and if you have the patience, just make it and forget about it for a while, see what happens. Otherwise bubble hash will produce gummy sticky stuff right off the bat, you'll just have to figure out a moisture content that won't lead to mold
 
I’m curious if I break apart a big stemmed flower by removing the individual small flowers if that would help remove more heads during the wash without removing as much plant matter.
For example the 7 tiny flowers are just a big flower with the big inner stem plucked clean of the tiny flowers.
The flowers on left are from a flower just like the one to the right and of same size.Very hard dense flowers.
It exposes more surface area and may let more heads break loose with less washing time producing a cleaner product.
 

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If there’s any bubble hash makers have you found any ways to test for too moist or dry bubble hash?
I have read about a few ways but information on the internet can be far from reliable.
The simplest answer would be get yourself a freeze dryer. There will be no guesswork then and more terps retained also. Opens up the door to making fully fresh frozen hash, rosin, jam, diamonds and sauce etc etc....
 
The simplest answer would be get yourself a freeze dryer. There will be no guesswork then and more terps retained also. Opens up the door to making fully fresh frozen hash, rosin, jam, diamonds and sauce etc etc....
  • Some advanced Bubblehash tips from a bubbler of 19 years.

  • Get the best bags money can buy, better the bag, the more efficient the collection
  • Always freeze your material with minimal agitation, you dont wanna create dust and smaller leaf particles that will contaminate your end result.
  • Pre-chill your water that you will wash with. This way you can do the next step which makes washing both more efficient and better quality.
  • Always let your material soak longer than you said you would. A long soak ensures correct temp throughout the wash,
  • Add ICE to determine how long to soak. A few cubes will suffice, and act as an indicator of temp if you dont have an IR gun.
  • DONT USE ICE IN THE WASHER..... Jury's verdict is in. Ice cold water brings out the best, agitation is a myth, its the vortex that creates the seperation of trichs, not agitation.
  • Once you have washed, empty the washer asap. The quicker you do this, the quicker you can wash again. Retaining the quality of the washed trim is essential to getting further washes.
  • 1st wash - 3 mins
  • 2nd wash - 6 mins
  • 3rd wash - 9 mins
  • 4th wash 12 mins.....etc.
  • Ascertain what the resin profile you are looking for and collect accordingly. I find with certain strains I want whats in the 150u, and sometimes its not worth collecting. My preferred profile is 120 - 45, but sometimes I even collect the 25u. Its all strain/pheno dependent.
  • For bulk full spectrum 180 - 25u.
Hope that helps and adds something to your process.

Peace
 
I recently finished another batch.
Different strains with different color and bigger size trichomes this wash.
I usually don’t get much in the 160 bag but this wash 30-40% was out of the 160 bag.
Picture on the left is out of the 160 on the right the out of 45 bag.
The real dirty stuff is out of 190 bag which usually just gets tossed.
I want to inspect it under a microscope before I discard it.
It’s in the freezer until I get a chance to sift it out for drying tomorrow.
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Sifting before drying works so much better than making thin layers.
This batch is dry and sealed up in jars after about 50 hours dry time.
I got a 21% return out of this wash.
I used less flowers by weight on this wash but got close to twice the return of others.
Must be strain related?
 
To air dry ice water hash:

  1. Take the wet bubble hash and gently press it over a 15μm or 25μm screen to remove any excess water.
  2. Freeze the wet hash patties for 24 hours.
  3. Grind the frozen bubble hash using a stainless-steel sieve to break it up into tiny pieces.
  4. Spread out the tiny pieces in a thin layer on food-grade parchment paper placed on top of a piece of cardboard (like a pizza box). Untreated corrugated cardboard absorbs moisture, helping the wet hash to dry.
  5. Place the board in a controlled environment (as described above) and leave it there for 2-10 days, or until the hash is dried to your satisfaction. What you’re going for is a dry, sand-like texture that’s sticky but not damp when you squeeze it between your fingers.
  6. Store the dried bubble hash in airtight containers in the freezer or press the bubble hash into rosin.
In addition to point 1 press the hash on the screen but have a paper towel under it to help wick up water.
Is the cardboard needed in your experience using the parchment paper?

Thanks
 
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